09/10/12: Póo

It's not very often I get to say that I'm in Póo, but I am today :0)

This was a stage that started out well, got quite boring and ended extremely well. I'll explain:

Last night was enjoyable. Having showered and done the necessaries I returned to the bar to use the wifi. My efforts took me up to mealtime, so I shut down the laptop and went into the restaurant. I'd been told he offered a "pilgrim special" and was happy to accept whatever he offered. This turned out to be a good decision.

I chose Favelas Asturianas for starters - a dish of large white beans in a rich tomato sauce, with various cuts of meat added - such as strips of loin of pork, local black pudding and so forth. Main dish was Merluza a la Romana - fresh white fish in batter with salad. Wine was included.

Shortly after I sat down to eat two pilgrims entered. I'd passed them earlier in the day, and having chatted a bit we sat together for our meals. They were a young Polish couple from London, thus naturalised English. We chatted and ate and toook full advantage of the free wine!

I set out early the next morning. Now that the sun is rising slightly later each day I found a bar and had a coffee while I waited for daylight. I then set off around the town in the growing dawn and managed to see a fair number of these impressive houses that have been built throughout these coastal towns and which represent the wealth of the 19th century Spanish traders in central America.

I headed out of town on the footpaths, looking forward to a day of coastal views. About five or six kilometres into the walk I was directed down off the hillside route and onto the main road. The reasons soon became very clear: a new motorway. Oh dear!

While I understand that such constructions are somewhat inevitable, the contrast feels especially poignant when one is walking for hours each day. Suddenly there doesn't seem to be quite such a rush to get somewhere. So while I can accept that someone has identified a need for more motorway, it left me wondering - as I saw the huge scars into the sides of the mountains - quite why humankind seems so utterly bent on trashing every last piece of the natural world.

My walk had suddenly become more perfunctory than enjoyable. I walked alongside a busy main road for the next hour and a half before, mercifully, the camino then swung right into the small (but architecturally rich) village of Pendueles. An interesting church, an unexpectedly imposing crypt in the cemetery, and a badly decaying palace alongside further examples of the past wealth of this area. The palace in particular bore evidence of the great age of iron construction. Just as in the bridge at Portugalete, it seems that modern methods were quickly adopted for large buildings. Today there are the rusting remains of what was once a palace.

As I left the village and found the coastal path, that wandered up and down and along the pretty coastline, I bumped into Joost once more. He had stayed about 2km from Colombres in a private albergue. We walked together, enjoying the increasingly impressive views as we rose above the coast and could see the Bay of Biscay framed against the flanks of the Picos de Europa.

The camino was now following another GR graded footpath - the markings are identical to those in France. We wandered along the coast, the path climbing and descending. Llanes came into view, another beautiful setting for an historic town beside the sea. We walked past a golf course and as the path began its descent toards Llanes we passed the small chapel of Santo Christo del Camino.

Not long after this we entered Llanes. Once again more evidence of the past wealth of this attractive coastal town. The camino took us past the harbour and into the historic centre. Joost decided it was lunchtime so I carried on towards the albergue. I should mention at this point that most of the guides (including mine) had listed the Youth Hostel in Llanes as a destination. However Joost's guidebook showed an albergue in a small hamlet just two kilometres further from Llanes in a place called Póo. I left Joost to enjoy his lunch and walked out past the ancient church (interesting portal - trust me ;0)) and out on the main thoroughfare, passing a beautiful old promenade shaded by ancient plane trees.

I passed more examples of these occidental houses built in varying styles and colours - each of them a testament to the power of their owner.

I was soon in Póo and found this lovely little albergue just short of the beach. A lovely sunny terrace and well tended garden. The clothes are hanging drying in the afternoon light, and I'm off shortly to find the one shop in town so that I can add to the uncooked pasta I've been carrying these past three days. I'll be 'eating in' this evening :0)

I've had such good luck with the weather on this walk. Yesterday was into the low thirties by midday, and although today started out overcast, after a few spots of rain around midday (that weren't even sufficient to consider donning waterproofs) we walked through Llanes in almost 30 degrees. The forecast for the next days is good, although obviously the weather tends to change very quickly here on the coast. All in all though a marvellous stage today, despite the diversion along the main road. I did have a thought for those walking this camino in a couple of years' time, when this new motorway will be open and this beautiful coastal walk will have to be undertaken within earshot of the lorries and cars on the motorway.

Anyway folks, that's it for today. I kept the distance under 30km (after the long stage yesterday) and my feet will appreciate the rest. It's a bit early to be certain but it's currently looking like Joost and I are going to be the only pilgrims here today. Mind you - one thing one learns is that the camino is FULL of surprises. Let's hope they're nice ones :0)

08/10/12: Colombres

With my leg feeling much better now I decided I might try catching up some of my friends who would now be some way ahead of me, so I decided on a slightly longer stage today.

I left Cobreces at first light. With the bar closed until 09:30 there was no way I was about to wait about for coffee.

I was up and out of town quite quickly, making my way along quiet leafy paths towards Comillas. The countryside changing once again.

I always enjoy the different methods of signposting, and today I found another - the plaques in the road. I have been walking on versions of these since Santander:

A little while later saw me enter the village of La Iglesia. I thought that here's a village that does what it says on the tin!

What I didn't know however was just what a very old and well preserved village this was! As I wandered into the centre I became aware of the high stone walls, the ancient cobbled streets. I felt it must have nestled here near the mountains for centuries:

As I left the village I saw what looked like an old monastery to my right. I rather hoped the camino might pass by so that I could at least read a name or some history, but it didn't.

I then passed a small street in an unnamed hamlet that comprised original houses, maintained over the centuries.

It wasn't long after this that Comillas appeared. It was difficult to get an overall view because of the hedges and stone walls that have appeared in this part of Cantabria, but it looked as if it would be an interesting place to pass through:

I wasn't wrong about Comillas. I had imposed a tighter schedule on myself today - determined to walk past St Vicente de la Barquadera - it meant that I wasn't inclined to start wandering around visiting and photographing everything. However there were still many things to stir interest. The first was a strangely tiled house, followed by the view down towards the church, followed shortly by one of the town's squares:

There was a dearth of marking through the town, so I asked. As I passed towards the town limits I passed a large restored house. It was the "Casa Acejo". The plaque (forget visiting - it's Monday) tells me that this was a house purchased by the first marquis of Comillas - Antonio López y López - for his mother. Apparently he invited a friend, king Alfonso XII to visit for the summer, as a result of which the house went on to be expanded by several well known architects. There's even a Chinese pagoda in the gardens designed by Gaudí.

I passed a couple of buildings before I saw what is listed in the guide as a folly designed by Gaudí. I can't say for certain whether this was the Chinese pagoda. I guess one might never know with Gaudí ;0)

The next significant building took me somewhat by surprise, mostly because I had no idea that such a large and imposing thing had been built. It turned out to be El Palacio de Sobrellano. I felt it was worth the walk up but found the ticket office closed on Mondays, along with the grilled gates. As I approached the gardener approached and told me I could walk up to see the exterior, so I've no idea if the gate he opened was left open normally or was a kindness on his part. Anyway, the building was umm... odd to say the least, but still impressive. It was built quite late for its appearance (to me anyway). In 1881 the marquis of Comillas - yes, the same one - invited Alfonso to lay the first stone. While I didn't see the interior the plaque explains that the main salon is particularly reknowned for its light and colours. An artist of the day had painted the four major events of the marquis' life. Unfortunately the marquis died aged 66 unable to see the inauguration of his palace:

While up on the hill to visit this palace I looked across to find another impressive building. I believe it's a college but am not sure. Either way it was worth a photo:

As I descended from the park I saw another pilgrim on the path. It turned out to be Guillaume, who I'd spoken to fairly briefly in the albergue in Santander. Guillaume has walked from Normandy and left in July. He's young and has no concerns about fitness or special clothing and equipment. He marches about in old army boots, carrying his magic staff. I keep meaning to take a photo but somehow it hasn't happened yet ;0)

Anyway, we had fun walking to St Vicente together, chatting about all sorts of things including reasons we've heard that people walk this camino. The approach to St Vicente was utterly magnificent, the high crests of the Picos de Europa shimmering in the sunlight:

Notice: I've just discovered that there is a limit to the photo hosting on Blogger. Not surprising I suppose, but in order to be able to post further photos it appears I have to purchase additional space. I'm not in a position to do that at present, so for now will have to stick to descriptions.

So, after a couple of beers in town with Guillaume I set off again, thinking about heading for Serdio - a further 9km or so - for a bed. It was now 30 degrees or more, and I set off into the town to find my way out. I was first directed past another church (who'd have thought?) and some picturesque views of the old castle.

I then walked on the road for the next five or more kilometres. Hot and not the most enjoyable, but it covers the distance. When I arrived at the junction with the camino I decided I wasn't going to stop in Serdio but continue to Unquera, and thus I stayed on the tarmac to cut the remaining distance.

In about 90 minutes I found myself on a steep descent into Unquera. It didn't take me long to discover that Unquera has nothing for the pilgrim. A number of overpriced hotels but no albergue. I decide to head on and was pleased to find that in fact the next accommodation was at Colombres - less than 2km away.

What I hadn't planned for was the long, dreary ascent out of Unquera. I was glad to arrive at the top, but disappointed to find the listed albergue closed. This is the first time I've found one closed but it's not uncommon along the camino del norte for places to close out of season.

I walked a little further to discover that they are housing pilgrims at the sports centre :0) Last night a monastery, today a sports hall. The camp beds are upstairs next to the weight machines. I'm now in the local bar about to order the "pilgrim special" for supper.

More tomorrow, sorry about the pics.

07/10/12: Cobreces

I was determined to desist from making notes about the previous night, particularly in terms of things like snoring. It makes a pretty uninteresting beginning to the blog. HOWEVER, I feel forced to make an exception.

Having felt myself so well installed in the albergue, and looking forward to a comfortable night's sleep, I found myself changing rooms a bit later because of a group arrival. No problem - as it appeared. I ended up sharing a room with three Mallorcans. Very nice people and they were happy to chat. But OH! MY!! GOD!!! I have NEVER heard such a racket issue from a human body before. The machine started up at around 22:30 and continued uninterrupted, at a volume and cadence sufficient to rumble the foundations, until 06:30 the following morning. I didn't sleep AT ALL.

Anyway moving on: A quick breakfast and then down to the train station for the early train. They are hourly and it seemed a waste of time to wait for the 08:30. It was dark early in the morning - the only time I've left in the dark. As you can see we were all waiting by this time - three French and three Mallorcans (not in the photo):

The walking on arrival was on minor roads - no dirt tracks here. I chatted for a while with one of the Mallorcans and learned a little about the ideas and traditions of life on Mallorca. Fairly shortly I left them all behind and wandered ahead, happy in my own company and thinking of someone I'd met recently.

An example of local vernacular:

I passed this church on the outskirts of Viveda. Of course I didn't bother trying to enter, but the two bell towers are impressive:

I was approaching Santillana del Mar but instead of walking on the road the path took me up to the northwest. A little way along the route I found this "pilgrim fountain"

I then passed what the sign said was a restored 17th century palace, but I can't say I felt compelled to visit. I thought the 'restoration' was a touch overdone:

The landscape opened out on my way to Santillana, and the cloud began to lift. It was going to be hot.

I passed a small hermita which I believe was called "El Torre de Don Juan" but have no idea why it was deemed significant. Sorry

Santillana soon appeared, and it soon became clear why this village is such a popular tourist destination. I passed through without stopping since I believe I will be back here on my return from Santiago, at which point I will spend a little more time looking around. Still, here are some shots of the various old palaces and churches in this entirely preserved Medieval village:

I wandered down to the bottom of the village, not too concerned with following the signs, and was reminded of something: the caves of Altamira! I knew they were somewhere nearby but in following the camino up across the hills I'd somewhat lost my bearings. Now I saw a sign telling me that they were just 2km away! This was something I was certainly prepared to make a diversion for, even if I was unsure about the cost of admission and whether that might prove prohibitive.

I wanderd up a hill, taking in a view of a 14th century hermitage (I'll try to add names later, I don't have my book with me just now):

I arrived at the Museum of Altamira and was delighted to find that a) admission is free on Sundays and b) that the place was relatively deserted of tourists this day. From the way the parking and ticketing arrangements are made it would seem that this site receives massive amounts of visitors in season, but for me it was a calm and easy entry.

As many of you will probably know, the cave at Altamira was closed in the early 80s because the numbers of visitors had climbed hugely and the change in the interior environment was threatening the paintings and the caves themselves. The museum contains a replica of sections of the cave, including the paintings. I'll admit that I was unsure about just how much I might enjoy the experience but I'm so glad I waited for the timed visit. Photographs were forbidden, but the experience of going into the cave was both utterly convincing and allowed us to wander without fear of damage. One can touch the walls and surfaces. And the particular part of the cave that contains all the famous paintings is very impressive. One has to see it to get a sense of the scale and extent of the work in there. I spent many happy minutes wandering about, ignoring the guides shouting out their explanations all around me.

After this visit and feeling so happy that it was well worth the time and distance, I headed back into Santillana to pick up the path. As I left they were happy to remind me of the distances left:

 

I approached the village of Cigüenza - the next village before my destination, and not only came across Joanna - a German pilgrim I had met with Roland some while back and who was struggling with bad feet - but also another hermitage and the church of San Martin. I don't remember the entire history of this rather unexepected building except that it was commissioned by a local baron who wanted to reproduce the style of the churches in another region (which I shall have to look up later). It was built with the two towers and it completely out of scale with its surroundings. He died before it was finished.

I slowed down to walk with Joanna - I think she appreciated the moral support. It wasn't long after that we arrived at Cobreces and our destination - the Carmelite monastery that welcomes pilgrims. I was touched to be recieved by a working curé :0) The red building in the photos is the church of Cobreces - built in the 19th century. The monastery is to the right in the wide shot.

We didn't stay in the monastery itself, merely in the grounds. But the showers were hot and the beds comfortable and it was cheap :0) The local restaurant was 40 metres away so I enjoyed a hand made pizza.

And that's all for today.