My evening in Ribadeo was an enjoyable one. Once again I was stopping in a town or city with a larger population and I went into town on a quick tour. It was nice to be once more among streets full of people going about their business. Unfortunately the church was locked. No surprise there but the local church of Santa Maria del Campo, which abuts the remains of a 13th century Franciscan convent, was unable to show off its recently restored baroque altarpiece. A great shame since from the view afforded through the locked doors it looked well worth a visit.
I set off in the morning at 08:30. This is the time it now gets light enough to be seen by traffic. There had been talk of a morning's rain and I saw others setting off already dressed in wet weather gear but since it wasn't raining and it didn't feel to me as if rain was imminent I took the chance and headed out.
The way out of Ribadeo was easy and clearly marked. I was soon into the countryside and it very quickly became apparent that our descent inland - away from the infernal motorway - was a good thing with regard to the camino experience. I was soon out on the gentle slopes of the hills and although virtually all of the morning's walking was on asphalt (they really are intent on sending us along the now disused old road. Less maintenance, I guess) it was quiet once more and the way was again clearly marked. I realised that this change of route (we're now heading down directly for Santiago) has returned us to some of the more established parts of the camino (the dates on some of the waymarkers suggest that this section of the camino was last rerouted in 1996 and therabouts). I could feel it in my feet -this subtle connection with a more well-trodden path.
The walking took me through undulating pasture interspersed with eucalyptus forest, and cows happily grazing in the silvery-grey light. The weather indeed seemed to be holding steady and with Fela Kuti in my earphones I realised I was once again fully engaged in the camino. How nice to once again feel on one's way :0)
I walked steadily on and the kilometres disappeared. The rain didn't materialise and I walked into Lourenzá around 13:30 - supposedly 28km but I somehow doubt it. Within 15 minutes I was at the albergue and was just about to tackle the matter of the key when a small red hatchback pulled up and out jumped Paco, complete with key! :0)
An hour later I was showered and my clothes were drying on the line. There are benefits to arriving early - it avoids the rush for the faclities (not that it's exactly crowded on this part of the camino).
Pilgrims arrived throughout the afternoon - most of whom I'd seen in the albergue in Ribadeo last night. Among them was Carmen - a rather attractive (strictly as an objective observation) Spanish girl. We went off to the supermarket together and shared the cost of the evening meal. Not only was it nutritious but also very economical. And I had the added bonus of sharing it with such lovely company :0)
So, a fairly reasonable stage tomorrow - just 24km I believe. I'm really enjoying this freedom from a guidebook - all the studying and planning and taking of notes that goes on in the evenings. At the end of the day one still has to go out there and walk it, and there's something of a sense of discovery to not know beforehand just how many ascents there might be or how high they are. There were a few of them today but nothing difficult. It's true to say that after more than six weeks of walking with my rucksack I have achieved a fitness for walking that means I'm free to enjoy the physical challenges without fear or difficulty.
I think that's about it for now. I think we're fairly close to Santiago now - something like 200 odd kilometres to go.
I set off in the morning at 08:30. This is the time it now gets light enough to be seen by traffic. There had been talk of a morning's rain and I saw others setting off already dressed in wet weather gear but since it wasn't raining and it didn't feel to me as if rain was imminent I took the chance and headed out.
The way out of Ribadeo was easy and clearly marked. I was soon into the countryside and it very quickly became apparent that our descent inland - away from the infernal motorway - was a good thing with regard to the camino experience. I was soon out on the gentle slopes of the hills and although virtually all of the morning's walking was on asphalt (they really are intent on sending us along the now disused old road. Less maintenance, I guess) it was quiet once more and the way was again clearly marked. I realised that this change of route (we're now heading down directly for Santiago) has returned us to some of the more established parts of the camino (the dates on some of the waymarkers suggest that this section of the camino was last rerouted in 1996 and therabouts). I could feel it in my feet -this subtle connection with a more well-trodden path.
The walking took me through undulating pasture interspersed with eucalyptus forest, and cows happily grazing in the silvery-grey light. The weather indeed seemed to be holding steady and with Fela Kuti in my earphones I realised I was once again fully engaged in the camino. How nice to once again feel on one's way :0)
I walked steadily on and the kilometres disappeared. The rain didn't materialise and I walked into Lourenzá around 13:30 - supposedly 28km but I somehow doubt it. Within 15 minutes I was at the albergue and was just about to tackle the matter of the key when a small red hatchback pulled up and out jumped Paco, complete with key! :0)
An hour later I was showered and my clothes were drying on the line. There are benefits to arriving early - it avoids the rush for the faclities (not that it's exactly crowded on this part of the camino).
Pilgrims arrived throughout the afternoon - most of whom I'd seen in the albergue in Ribadeo last night. Among them was Carmen - a rather attractive (strictly as an objective observation) Spanish girl. We went off to the supermarket together and shared the cost of the evening meal. Not only was it nutritious but also very economical. And I had the added bonus of sharing it with such lovely company :0)
So, a fairly reasonable stage tomorrow - just 24km I believe. I'm really enjoying this freedom from a guidebook - all the studying and planning and taking of notes that goes on in the evenings. At the end of the day one still has to go out there and walk it, and there's something of a sense of discovery to not know beforehand just how many ascents there might be or how high they are. There were a few of them today but nothing difficult. It's true to say that after more than six weeks of walking with my rucksack I have achieved a fitness for walking that means I'm free to enjoy the physical challenges without fear or difficulty.
I think that's about it for now. I think we're fairly close to Santiago now - something like 200 odd kilometres to go.
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