With my leg feeling much better now I decided I might try catching up some of my friends who would now be some way ahead of me, so I decided on a slightly longer stage today.
I left Cobreces at first light. With the bar closed until 09:30 there was no way I was about to wait about for coffee.
I was up and out of town quite quickly, making my way along quiet leafy paths towards Comillas. The countryside changing once again.
I always enjoy the different methods of signposting, and today I found another - the plaques in the road. I have been walking on versions of these since Santander:
A little while later saw me enter the village of La Iglesia. I thought that here's a village that does what it says on the tin!
What I didn't know however was just what a very old and well preserved village this was! As I wandered into the centre I became aware of the high stone walls, the ancient cobbled streets. I felt it must have nestled here near the mountains for centuries:
As I left the village I saw what looked like an old monastery to my right. I rather hoped the camino might pass by so that I could at least read a name or some history, but it didn't.
I then passed a small street in an unnamed hamlet that comprised original houses, maintained over the centuries.
It wasn't long after this that Comillas appeared. It was difficult to get an overall view because of the hedges and stone walls that have appeared in this part of Cantabria, but it looked as if it would be an interesting place to pass through:
I wasn't wrong about Comillas. I had imposed a tighter schedule on myself today - determined to walk past St Vicente de la Barquadera - it meant that I wasn't inclined to start wandering around visiting and photographing everything. However there were still many things to stir interest. The first was a strangely tiled house, followed by the view down towards the church, followed shortly by one of the town's squares:
There was a dearth of marking through the town, so I asked. As I passed towards the town limits I passed a large restored house. It was the "Casa Acejo". The plaque (forget visiting - it's Monday) tells me that this was a house purchased by the first marquis of Comillas - Antonio López y López - for his mother. Apparently he invited a friend, king Alfonso XII to visit for the summer, as a result of which the house went on to be expanded by several well known architects. There's even a Chinese pagoda in the gardens designed by Gaudí.
I passed a couple of buildings before I saw what is listed in the guide as a folly designed by Gaudí. I can't say for certain whether this was the Chinese pagoda. I guess one might never know with Gaudí ;0)
The next significant building took me somewhat by surprise, mostly because I had no idea that such a large and imposing thing had been built. It turned out to be El Palacio de Sobrellano. I felt it was worth the walk up but found the ticket office closed on Mondays, along with the grilled gates. As I approached the gardener approached and told me I could walk up to see the exterior, so I've no idea if the gate he opened was left open normally or was a kindness on his part. Anyway, the building was umm... odd to say the least, but still impressive. It was built quite late for its appearance (to me anyway). In 1881 the marquis of Comillas - yes, the same one - invited Alfonso to lay the first stone. While I didn't see the interior the plaque explains that the main salon is particularly reknowned for its light and colours. An artist of the day had painted the four major events of the marquis' life. Unfortunately the marquis died aged 66 unable to see the inauguration of his palace:
While up on the hill to visit this palace I looked across to find another impressive building. I believe it's a college but am not sure. Either way it was worth a photo:
As I descended from the park I saw another pilgrim on the path. It turned out to be Guillaume, who I'd spoken to fairly briefly in the albergue in Santander. Guillaume has walked from Normandy and left in July. He's young and has no concerns about fitness or special clothing and equipment. He marches about in old army boots, carrying his magic staff. I keep meaning to take a photo but somehow it hasn't happened yet ;0)
Anyway, we had fun walking to St Vicente together, chatting about all sorts of things including reasons we've heard that people walk this camino. The approach to St Vicente was utterly magnificent, the high crests of the Picos de Europa shimmering in the sunlight:
Notice: I've just discovered that there is a limit to the photo hosting on Blogger. Not surprising I suppose, but in order to be able to post further photos it appears I have to purchase additional space. I'm not in a position to do that at present, so for now will have to stick to descriptions.
So, after a couple of beers in town with Guillaume I set off again, thinking about heading for Serdio - a further 9km or so - for a bed. It was now 30 degrees or more, and I set off into the town to find my way out. I was first directed past another church (who'd have thought?) and some picturesque views of the old castle.
I then walked on the road for the next five or more kilometres. Hot and not the most enjoyable, but it covers the distance. When I arrived at the junction with the camino I decided I wasn't going to stop in Serdio but continue to Unquera, and thus I stayed on the tarmac to cut the remaining distance.
In about 90 minutes I found myself on a steep descent into Unquera. It didn't take me long to discover that Unquera has nothing for the pilgrim. A number of overpriced hotels but no albergue. I decide to head on and was pleased to find that in fact the next accommodation was at Colombres - less than 2km away.
What I hadn't planned for was the long, dreary ascent out of Unquera. I was glad to arrive at the top, but disappointed to find the listed albergue closed. This is the first time I've found one closed but it's not uncommon along the camino del norte for places to close out of season.
I walked a little further to discover that they are housing pilgrims at the sports centre :0) Last night a monastery, today a sports hall. The camp beds are upstairs next to the weight machines. I'm now in the local bar about to order the "pilgrim special" for supper.
More tomorrow, sorry about the pics.
I left Cobreces at first light. With the bar closed until 09:30 there was no way I was about to wait about for coffee.
I was up and out of town quite quickly, making my way along quiet leafy paths towards Comillas. The countryside changing once again.
I always enjoy the different methods of signposting, and today I found another - the plaques in the road. I have been walking on versions of these since Santander:
A little while later saw me enter the village of La Iglesia. I thought that here's a village that does what it says on the tin!
What I didn't know however was just what a very old and well preserved village this was! As I wandered into the centre I became aware of the high stone walls, the ancient cobbled streets. I felt it must have nestled here near the mountains for centuries:
As I left the village I saw what looked like an old monastery to my right. I rather hoped the camino might pass by so that I could at least read a name or some history, but it didn't.
I then passed a small street in an unnamed hamlet that comprised original houses, maintained over the centuries.
It wasn't long after this that Comillas appeared. It was difficult to get an overall view because of the hedges and stone walls that have appeared in this part of Cantabria, but it looked as if it would be an interesting place to pass through:
I wasn't wrong about Comillas. I had imposed a tighter schedule on myself today - determined to walk past St Vicente de la Barquadera - it meant that I wasn't inclined to start wandering around visiting and photographing everything. However there were still many things to stir interest. The first was a strangely tiled house, followed by the view down towards the church, followed shortly by one of the town's squares:
There was a dearth of marking through the town, so I asked. As I passed towards the town limits I passed a large restored house. It was the "Casa Acejo". The plaque (forget visiting - it's Monday) tells me that this was a house purchased by the first marquis of Comillas - Antonio López y López - for his mother. Apparently he invited a friend, king Alfonso XII to visit for the summer, as a result of which the house went on to be expanded by several well known architects. There's even a Chinese pagoda in the gardens designed by Gaudí.
I passed a couple of buildings before I saw what is listed in the guide as a folly designed by Gaudí. I can't say for certain whether this was the Chinese pagoda. I guess one might never know with Gaudí ;0)
The next significant building took me somewhat by surprise, mostly because I had no idea that such a large and imposing thing had been built. It turned out to be El Palacio de Sobrellano. I felt it was worth the walk up but found the ticket office closed on Mondays, along with the grilled gates. As I approached the gardener approached and told me I could walk up to see the exterior, so I've no idea if the gate he opened was left open normally or was a kindness on his part. Anyway, the building was umm... odd to say the least, but still impressive. It was built quite late for its appearance (to me anyway). In 1881 the marquis of Comillas - yes, the same one - invited Alfonso to lay the first stone. While I didn't see the interior the plaque explains that the main salon is particularly reknowned for its light and colours. An artist of the day had painted the four major events of the marquis' life. Unfortunately the marquis died aged 66 unable to see the inauguration of his palace:
While up on the hill to visit this palace I looked across to find another impressive building. I believe it's a college but am not sure. Either way it was worth a photo:
As I descended from the park I saw another pilgrim on the path. It turned out to be Guillaume, who I'd spoken to fairly briefly in the albergue in Santander. Guillaume has walked from Normandy and left in July. He's young and has no concerns about fitness or special clothing and equipment. He marches about in old army boots, carrying his magic staff. I keep meaning to take a photo but somehow it hasn't happened yet ;0)
Anyway, we had fun walking to St Vicente together, chatting about all sorts of things including reasons we've heard that people walk this camino. The approach to St Vicente was utterly magnificent, the high crests of the Picos de Europa shimmering in the sunlight:
Notice: I've just discovered that there is a limit to the photo hosting on Blogger. Not surprising I suppose, but in order to be able to post further photos it appears I have to purchase additional space. I'm not in a position to do that at present, so for now will have to stick to descriptions.
So, after a couple of beers in town with Guillaume I set off again, thinking about heading for Serdio - a further 9km or so - for a bed. It was now 30 degrees or more, and I set off into the town to find my way out. I was first directed past another church (who'd have thought?) and some picturesque views of the old castle.
I then walked on the road for the next five or more kilometres. Hot and not the most enjoyable, but it covers the distance. When I arrived at the junction with the camino I decided I wasn't going to stop in Serdio but continue to Unquera, and thus I stayed on the tarmac to cut the remaining distance.
In about 90 minutes I found myself on a steep descent into Unquera. It didn't take me long to discover that Unquera has nothing for the pilgrim. A number of overpriced hotels but no albergue. I decide to head on and was pleased to find that in fact the next accommodation was at Colombres - less than 2km away.
What I hadn't planned for was the long, dreary ascent out of Unquera. I was glad to arrive at the top, but disappointed to find the listed albergue closed. This is the first time I've found one closed but it's not uncommon along the camino del norte for places to close out of season.
I walked a little further to discover that they are housing pilgrims at the sports centre :0) Last night a monastery, today a sports hall. The camp beds are upstairs next to the weight machines. I'm now in the local bar about to order the "pilgrim special" for supper.
More tomorrow, sorry about the pics.
Hey there Alan - glad you got to see the caves at Altamira - we saw the expo a few years ago when staying at Santillana del Mar and we were very impressed. Also very much like Santillana (great cloister with capitals) - you're right, we'll be staying at Santillana on the way back next month.
ReplyDeleteSorry to hear about the limits on photos -we've been enjoying the photo album, especially the churches!
Hi Ruth,
ReplyDeleteI agree that Santillana looked really interesting, but not only will I be back there in several weeks, my day was a Sunday and as such the town was full of tourists and just short of sales of "kiss me quick" hats and coloured candy! I thought that all the tourist tat somewhat disfigured the beautiful, ancient buildings. I'm hoping it'll be a bit quieter when we return.
I can also suggest (although we'll have ample opportunity to discuss this in person) that on the return journey, with Santillana being a fairly easy drive, you might like to take the national and not the autoroute so that we can drive through a number of really fascinating towns. I would suggest that (in reverse order as it were) Llanes, Colombres, San Vicente, Comillas, La Iglesia are all well worth a quick look. Lots of fascinating houses and churches.
I'm with that idea.
ReplyDelete