My way out of Santiago was simple and quiet. Two streets later I was heading out of the town (city?). The way to Fisterra was marked with the same waypoints and signposts as I've been following all along this route.
I was into the countryside and heading uphill. The sun was out and it was time for a hat! I quickly realised two things. I was now completely relaxed about the walking. No more feeling of needing to get anywhere for anything, despite that I'm heading for Fisterra in three days, following the recommended route. The second thing I realised was that I had, at this precise moment, absolutely not a care in the world. That's a nice feeling :0)
The sun kept up its shining and I put on some music. The several pilgrims I've met who had told me that this part of the camino was the very prettiest of the lot certainly seem to have been right thus far. I was walking into wooded hillsides dotted with small villages. The distances are marked on the waypoints so I was able to adjust my pace (strolling) as necessary.
I passed more pilgrims on my way, many of whom were heading back towards Santiago. The camino here is marked in both directions - which it is not for most of its route, making it difficult for those wanting to travel the return legs. I passed through the village of Ponte Maceira with its 14th century stone bridge a splendid example of a Medieval engineering. The river was wide and flat, and a heron stood in the shallows waiting for an unsuspecting fish.
About an hour or so later I rolled into Negreira. There were signs advertising albergues, pensions and hotels hanging from just about every street lamp available. I was heading for the municipal albergue once more. A little way out of town and, at time of arrival, quite empty, but they are cheap and generally of a good standard.
Not so long after I arrived several of the pilgrims I'd passed turned up, including a very fit American lady who, it turns out, had completed the Camino Frances in 24 days. I commented that this seemed like quick going and she casually replied "yeah well, I ran about half of it". I pointed at her considerable rucksack and she said "yup, it's no problem". I should have noticed the "Iron Man" cap. She was a keen triathlete and competitor and for her this was all something of a walk in the park. I told her that I had both of the Iron Man films but she didn't seem all that impressed ;0) She didn't stay - she decided she needed to do more kilometres.
By around 17:30hrs the twenty places in the albergue had all been taken. Among my fellow travelers I got chatting to a very friendly young couple from Vermont who have just made their Santiago stage and are also now heading for the coast. They invited me for supper which was delicious, despite the fact that it was once more spaghetti. I seem to love pasta - I'm still quite happy to eat either pasta or rice. Fortunately us
europeans like to eat earlier. With about nine Italians in residence the stove (electric) got overworked and packed up after some smoking and a bright electric flash. That was the end of the cooking. It wouldn't have been quite so bad had the young hospitalero not been quite so cheery when she announced to several hungry pilgrims that "oh well, you'll have to eat salad for tonight". Hmm - let's see her walk 33km and then eat a pepper salad.
I'll be in Fisterra in a couple of days, after which it's a day up to Muxia. After that? Well - I'm pretty much kicking my heels until my dear friends arrive, but knowing the camino - and the fact that the best seems to be last - well, I'm still ready for a few more surprises yet :0)
I was into the countryside and heading uphill. The sun was out and it was time for a hat! I quickly realised two things. I was now completely relaxed about the walking. No more feeling of needing to get anywhere for anything, despite that I'm heading for Fisterra in three days, following the recommended route. The second thing I realised was that I had, at this precise moment, absolutely not a care in the world. That's a nice feeling :0)
The sun kept up its shining and I put on some music. The several pilgrims I've met who had told me that this part of the camino was the very prettiest of the lot certainly seem to have been right thus far. I was walking into wooded hillsides dotted with small villages. The distances are marked on the waypoints so I was able to adjust my pace (strolling) as necessary.
I passed more pilgrims on my way, many of whom were heading back towards Santiago. The camino here is marked in both directions - which it is not for most of its route, making it difficult for those wanting to travel the return legs. I passed through the village of Ponte Maceira with its 14th century stone bridge a splendid example of a Medieval engineering. The river was wide and flat, and a heron stood in the shallows waiting for an unsuspecting fish.
About an hour or so later I rolled into Negreira. There were signs advertising albergues, pensions and hotels hanging from just about every street lamp available. I was heading for the municipal albergue once more. A little way out of town and, at time of arrival, quite empty, but they are cheap and generally of a good standard.
Not so long after I arrived several of the pilgrims I'd passed turned up, including a very fit American lady who, it turns out, had completed the Camino Frances in 24 days. I commented that this seemed like quick going and she casually replied "yeah well, I ran about half of it". I pointed at her considerable rucksack and she said "yup, it's no problem". I should have noticed the "Iron Man" cap. She was a keen triathlete and competitor and for her this was all something of a walk in the park. I told her that I had both of the Iron Man films but she didn't seem all that impressed ;0) She didn't stay - she decided she needed to do more kilometres.
By around 17:30hrs the twenty places in the albergue had all been taken. Among my fellow travelers I got chatting to a very friendly young couple from Vermont who have just made their Santiago stage and are also now heading for the coast. They invited me for supper which was delicious, despite the fact that it was once more spaghetti. I seem to love pasta - I'm still quite happy to eat either pasta or rice. Fortunately us
europeans like to eat earlier. With about nine Italians in residence the stove (electric) got overworked and packed up after some smoking and a bright electric flash. That was the end of the cooking. It wouldn't have been quite so bad had the young hospitalero not been quite so cheery when she announced to several hungry pilgrims that "oh well, you'll have to eat salad for tonight". Hmm - let's see her walk 33km and then eat a pepper salad.
I'll be in Fisterra in a couple of days, after which it's a day up to Muxia. After that? Well - I'm pretty much kicking my heels until my dear friends arrive, but knowing the camino - and the fact that the best seems to be last - well, I'm still ready for a few more surprises yet :0)
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