Well we made our best of things in Vilalba. The albergue itself was really smart. As a new building opened in 2000, it was well designed and comfortable BUT the kitchen was completely void of utensils, pots and pans and basically anything one might need for cooking. (We've heard from several sources that while these albergues are heavily subsidised, there is still a large degree of overlap between the albergues and the bars and restaurants. It seems that many hospitaleros feel it their duty to enourage pilgrims to spend their money in the bars and restaurants). In any case we went into town and found a supermarket and bought both food and utensils. Shared between three people the cost is still less than dining out :0)
We had a fun evening cooking together and the meal was delicious.
The next morning we all greeted each other before setting out on our separate but identical paths. We were now: Carmen; Inge and Günter and Estelle - a Danish woman we met in the albergue. We would meet again at the end of the day.
The walk was ended up being another that took in two stops. The next albergue from Vilalba is at Baamonde - 22km away. The walk to Baamonde passed quickly (in just under four hours to be exact) which I took to be a sign of the very enjoyable paths on this part of the camino. I walked at my usual steady pace, greatly enjoying what felt like a more relaxed pace of things lately. With the same heavy morning mist as the day before, I was wearing my jacket and a cap and kept my hands in my pockets for warmth.
It not that long after I started that I pitched up in Baamonde. No great changes in elevation, and the mist had finally begun to clear. The walking had been easy. It's still largely all asphalt out here but at least it makes for steady going. Once I arrived I sat outside a bar waiting for Carmen (because she was carrying half of tonight's food!) and enjoyed the warm sun on my skin. It was probably in the low 20s by now - great for walking.
The people running the albergue in Baamonde struck me as rather pushy in terms of trying to encourage me into their albergue, despite my explaining that my stop was most likely only temporary. They insisted that I sat and waited on their premises and further insisted on showing me around the place. It is indeed a very nice place - beautifully appointed and with a lovely garden and terrace. But I didn't stay - indeed we agreed to push on to the next albergue at Miraz.
I'm so very glad we decided to do this. Despite the rather long and boring walk out of Baamonde, eventually crossing the railway line to head into the woods and along a very ancient camino beside the chapel of Santa Maria and its miraculous spring (I wonder how many Santa Marias there are in Spain?), these final 16km did start to drag a little. Mind you, I did pass a significant mark on this leg of the walk. The point where one turns off the road over the railway line marks the 100km to Santiago! Gosh! It feels like I only left home the other day, and here I am about to embark on the final days of my walk. It's 193km to Finisterre from here, and a further 35km to Muxia, plus whatever additional mileage I do before the 5th November.
Just outside of Miraz I bumped into Estelle, who had been resting in the sunshine. We set off together for the final kilometres, passing on our way a group of 13 who, we were about to find out, were booked into the same albergue in Miraz.
The albergue at Miraz was utterly superb - easily the best place I've stayed in on this trip. The reason would seem to be that the premises are run directly by the CSJ and is staffed year round by volunteers - English volunteers. Not only did we receive a warm welcome but the place really was home from home. There was a large and extremely well equipped kitchen (which we made full use of) and later in the evening the wood burning stove was lit - just perfect for keeping the slight chill at bay.
Our other friends from Vilalba turned up, so the 'gang' was reunited. The group we had passed on the road turned out to be a really nice bunch of people. They were Spanish students - looked like first or second year University - walking with three adults for the 100km to Santiago in order to get their compostelas. They had (as I found out at supper) a priest with them - a very nice Spanish guy of 35 who struck me as not at all misty eyed or superstitious about his faith but instead a pragmatist and a humane person. He was very keen on stirring the inner lives of his charges but without preaching or undue ceremony. I felt strongly that when faith manifests itself in such a way it feels extremely hard - churlish even - to take any kind of offence or objection to the church in action. The students themselves were a lovely bunch of people and they were encouraged to speak only in English to us all. They did so very fluently, and I was struck by what genuinely nice, inquisitive, intelligent people they all were.
Everyone was made to feel so comfortable and at ease, and after eating well (with wine, of course) we all retired to bed, the better to be prepared for the following day's adventures.
We had a fun evening cooking together and the meal was delicious.
The next morning we all greeted each other before setting out on our separate but identical paths. We were now: Carmen; Inge and Günter and Estelle - a Danish woman we met in the albergue. We would meet again at the end of the day.
The walk was ended up being another that took in two stops. The next albergue from Vilalba is at Baamonde - 22km away. The walk to Baamonde passed quickly (in just under four hours to be exact) which I took to be a sign of the very enjoyable paths on this part of the camino. I walked at my usual steady pace, greatly enjoying what felt like a more relaxed pace of things lately. With the same heavy morning mist as the day before, I was wearing my jacket and a cap and kept my hands in my pockets for warmth.
It not that long after I started that I pitched up in Baamonde. No great changes in elevation, and the mist had finally begun to clear. The walking had been easy. It's still largely all asphalt out here but at least it makes for steady going. Once I arrived I sat outside a bar waiting for Carmen (because she was carrying half of tonight's food!) and enjoyed the warm sun on my skin. It was probably in the low 20s by now - great for walking.
The people running the albergue in Baamonde struck me as rather pushy in terms of trying to encourage me into their albergue, despite my explaining that my stop was most likely only temporary. They insisted that I sat and waited on their premises and further insisted on showing me around the place. It is indeed a very nice place - beautifully appointed and with a lovely garden and terrace. But I didn't stay - indeed we agreed to push on to the next albergue at Miraz.
I'm so very glad we decided to do this. Despite the rather long and boring walk out of Baamonde, eventually crossing the railway line to head into the woods and along a very ancient camino beside the chapel of Santa Maria and its miraculous spring (I wonder how many Santa Marias there are in Spain?), these final 16km did start to drag a little. Mind you, I did pass a significant mark on this leg of the walk. The point where one turns off the road over the railway line marks the 100km to Santiago! Gosh! It feels like I only left home the other day, and here I am about to embark on the final days of my walk. It's 193km to Finisterre from here, and a further 35km to Muxia, plus whatever additional mileage I do before the 5th November.
Just outside of Miraz I bumped into Estelle, who had been resting in the sunshine. We set off together for the final kilometres, passing on our way a group of 13 who, we were about to find out, were booked into the same albergue in Miraz.
The albergue at Miraz was utterly superb - easily the best place I've stayed in on this trip. The reason would seem to be that the premises are run directly by the CSJ and is staffed year round by volunteers - English volunteers. Not only did we receive a warm welcome but the place really was home from home. There was a large and extremely well equipped kitchen (which we made full use of) and later in the evening the wood burning stove was lit - just perfect for keeping the slight chill at bay.
Our other friends from Vilalba turned up, so the 'gang' was reunited. The group we had passed on the road turned out to be a really nice bunch of people. They were Spanish students - looked like first or second year University - walking with three adults for the 100km to Santiago in order to get their compostelas. They had (as I found out at supper) a priest with them - a very nice Spanish guy of 35 who struck me as not at all misty eyed or superstitious about his faith but instead a pragmatist and a humane person. He was very keen on stirring the inner lives of his charges but without preaching or undue ceremony. I felt strongly that when faith manifests itself in such a way it feels extremely hard - churlish even - to take any kind of offence or objection to the church in action. The students themselves were a lovely bunch of people and they were encouraged to speak only in English to us all. They did so very fluently, and I was struck by what genuinely nice, inquisitive, intelligent people they all were.
Everyone was made to feel so comfortable and at ease, and after eating well (with wine, of course) we all retired to bed, the better to be prepared for the following day's adventures.
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