Yesterday evening ended well, despite the efforts of the local wifi network to thwart my blogging!
Just as I sat down to eat (I call the recipe "tuna surprise" - mostly because it always is) Roland turned up. I invited him to join us. Later that evening the three of us went out to drink cider. After all, this is a centre for cider production, so we felt we were simply indulging in a little cultural tourism :0)
The cider they make here is refreshing but of a low alchohol content, thus a couple of bottles went down well and we strolled back to the albergue. It certainly helped me to relax at the end of the day :0)
One further thing I would add about Avilés is to say that it is a fascinating town. Despite giving the appearance, should one drive into or through it, of being a thoroughly uninteresting modern town, the few streets that comprise the historic centre more than make up for the lack of glamour. What a huge number of fascinating old buildings, cobbled arcades and old churches there are!
Anyway, next morning I awoke at a usual sort of time - around 06:30 - and started repacking the rucksack. I left with Joost just after 08:00, it still quite dark now that the evenings appear to be lengthening.
Today began cloudy and the weather deteriorated quickly. Waterproofs on just as we began the climb out of town and they stayed on all day.
The details of today's stage were less than completely clear. The more recent guidebooks had put the stage at almost 41km - too much to consider allowing for all the ascents and descents today. On the other hand the new map outside the albergue in Avilés had it at 32km - much more manageable. My feeling was that, in comparing the two maps, several of the stages between villages had been shortened. I think many pilgrims found 41km too far.
So, we headed up and out. It wasn't a particularly ardouos climb - in fact none of them were, although climbing and descending take their toll. The rain was coming down steadily now and we just walked without talking, focusing on secure footing in the more difficult conditions.
Just before midday we pitched up in Santiago del Monte where we found a bar. While we were having coffee the heavens opened and we were glad to be sitting indoors, despite the fact that the waterproofs work absolutely fine.
We set off again with 16km already behind us, with 16 or possibly more kilometres still ahead. There were brief pauses in the rain and a few glimpses of sunshine between the clouds but generally today was wet and dreary. There was even a wind that whipped up at times and chilled things somewhat.
When we arrived in the next village, Joost - not unexpectedly - decided that it was both lunchtime and far enough for him. I carried on alone, certain that I would have several hours' more walk ahead of me. I put some music on my little player and headed onward.
The afternoon grew progressively wetter. I was walking solo for the first time in many days and felt a mixture of different things. It's good to have personal time on the camino - the experience does rather lend itself to reflection. I thought about the past days and the weeks, and the more than one thousand kilometres I've already walked. It is true to say that a part of me wanted to return to things known - my own bed, familiar surroundings, some personal space. While there is enormous camaraderie and kindness amongst one's fellow travellers, one is also constantly in contact with others, in shared spaces. I've spent almost six weeks in such company and part of me felt it had had enough. Still, one goes on. I'm simply recording some of what goes on while I'm walking. There's no doubt in my mind that I'll make it to Santiago!
The rest of the afternoon was - to use a word - "challenging". And not necessarily in the best way. It was cold and miserable. In a funny way I didn't mind. As I've said elsewhere on this blog, I've had SO much great wather since I left and this was only the first time I could say it has really rained properly. Walking in wet weather gear (at least, the gear I've bought - on a budget) is a new experience. With continued exertion the gear tends to hold perspiration inside, thus while it is most certainly keeping the rain out! continued wear induces a certain amount of moisture inside. The thing is to keep walking and not let it cool down.
I was making good progress but suddenly and for no apparent reason the markings disappeared. I asked and was shown the way (this happens a lot in Spain) but still no arrows or waymarkers. The reason soon became clear. As I climbed a steep path, the new motorway overpass very mcuh in sight, I discovered that I was pitched out directly onto the exit ramp! The new stretch of motorway has just been opened and has cut directly into the camino. I'm now forced to walk in the rain on a hard shoulder (this is an exit ramp, not the motorway itself). I arrive at a roundabout and suddenly out of nowhere some yellow markers appear. I followe them and realise that this is a very hasty marking job that attempts to restore the pilgrim to some part of the camino. So much for the thousand years of history and the signs that everywhere proclaim the camino's status as part of "a European heritage" - people need to arrive sooner! So forget history, peace, walking - let's build yet more roads!!
The one upside to all of this unexpected diversion was that when I finally climbed down through the woods on an ancient cobbled path (always difficult in the rain, with wet leaves and clay), wondering just how much further I would have to walk, I was delighted to see the sign for my destination just ahead of me. The time taken would seem to suggest that this stage was indeed somewhere in the region of 32km, give a bit. I found the albergue quickly and was pleased to discover that it appears to be free! Lots of hot water in the showers, and blankets etc. but no kitchen, so the food I've carried all day will have to be cooked later (nothing like adding more kilos! A bag of rice, some tuna, a tin of sweetcorn etc... oh what fun I have!)
Right then - that's me up to date. I've no idea where I'm going tomorrow apart from further West. The guide I bought doesn't cover the coastal route this far, so I'll just walk until I've had enough and then find somewhere to stop. There's something fun about the camino in such a spirit - no constant fretting over maps and distances, just following the arrows :0)
I'm off to digest the "pilgrim special" in the restaurant just as soon as it opens. A couple of younger Spanish lads in the albergue - that's about all one sees on this route really. I don't mind but they do have an annoying habit of talking on their mobiles after lights out. Oh well... it's the camino ;0)
Just as I sat down to eat (I call the recipe "tuna surprise" - mostly because it always is) Roland turned up. I invited him to join us. Later that evening the three of us went out to drink cider. After all, this is a centre for cider production, so we felt we were simply indulging in a little cultural tourism :0)
The cider they make here is refreshing but of a low alchohol content, thus a couple of bottles went down well and we strolled back to the albergue. It certainly helped me to relax at the end of the day :0)
One further thing I would add about Avilés is to say that it is a fascinating town. Despite giving the appearance, should one drive into or through it, of being a thoroughly uninteresting modern town, the few streets that comprise the historic centre more than make up for the lack of glamour. What a huge number of fascinating old buildings, cobbled arcades and old churches there are!
Anyway, next morning I awoke at a usual sort of time - around 06:30 - and started repacking the rucksack. I left with Joost just after 08:00, it still quite dark now that the evenings appear to be lengthening.
Today began cloudy and the weather deteriorated quickly. Waterproofs on just as we began the climb out of town and they stayed on all day.
The details of today's stage were less than completely clear. The more recent guidebooks had put the stage at almost 41km - too much to consider allowing for all the ascents and descents today. On the other hand the new map outside the albergue in Avilés had it at 32km - much more manageable. My feeling was that, in comparing the two maps, several of the stages between villages had been shortened. I think many pilgrims found 41km too far.
So, we headed up and out. It wasn't a particularly ardouos climb - in fact none of them were, although climbing and descending take their toll. The rain was coming down steadily now and we just walked without talking, focusing on secure footing in the more difficult conditions.
Just before midday we pitched up in Santiago del Monte where we found a bar. While we were having coffee the heavens opened and we were glad to be sitting indoors, despite the fact that the waterproofs work absolutely fine.
We set off again with 16km already behind us, with 16 or possibly more kilometres still ahead. There were brief pauses in the rain and a few glimpses of sunshine between the clouds but generally today was wet and dreary. There was even a wind that whipped up at times and chilled things somewhat.
When we arrived in the next village, Joost - not unexpectedly - decided that it was both lunchtime and far enough for him. I carried on alone, certain that I would have several hours' more walk ahead of me. I put some music on my little player and headed onward.
The afternoon grew progressively wetter. I was walking solo for the first time in many days and felt a mixture of different things. It's good to have personal time on the camino - the experience does rather lend itself to reflection. I thought about the past days and the weeks, and the more than one thousand kilometres I've already walked. It is true to say that a part of me wanted to return to things known - my own bed, familiar surroundings, some personal space. While there is enormous camaraderie and kindness amongst one's fellow travellers, one is also constantly in contact with others, in shared spaces. I've spent almost six weeks in such company and part of me felt it had had enough. Still, one goes on. I'm simply recording some of what goes on while I'm walking. There's no doubt in my mind that I'll make it to Santiago!
The rest of the afternoon was - to use a word - "challenging". And not necessarily in the best way. It was cold and miserable. In a funny way I didn't mind. As I've said elsewhere on this blog, I've had SO much great wather since I left and this was only the first time I could say it has really rained properly. Walking in wet weather gear (at least, the gear I've bought - on a budget) is a new experience. With continued exertion the gear tends to hold perspiration inside, thus while it is most certainly keeping the rain out! continued wear induces a certain amount of moisture inside. The thing is to keep walking and not let it cool down.
I was making good progress but suddenly and for no apparent reason the markings disappeared. I asked and was shown the way (this happens a lot in Spain) but still no arrows or waymarkers. The reason soon became clear. As I climbed a steep path, the new motorway overpass very mcuh in sight, I discovered that I was pitched out directly onto the exit ramp! The new stretch of motorway has just been opened and has cut directly into the camino. I'm now forced to walk in the rain on a hard shoulder (this is an exit ramp, not the motorway itself). I arrive at a roundabout and suddenly out of nowhere some yellow markers appear. I followe them and realise that this is a very hasty marking job that attempts to restore the pilgrim to some part of the camino. So much for the thousand years of history and the signs that everywhere proclaim the camino's status as part of "a European heritage" - people need to arrive sooner! So forget history, peace, walking - let's build yet more roads!!
The one upside to all of this unexpected diversion was that when I finally climbed down through the woods on an ancient cobbled path (always difficult in the rain, with wet leaves and clay), wondering just how much further I would have to walk, I was delighted to see the sign for my destination just ahead of me. The time taken would seem to suggest that this stage was indeed somewhere in the region of 32km, give a bit. I found the albergue quickly and was pleased to discover that it appears to be free! Lots of hot water in the showers, and blankets etc. but no kitchen, so the food I've carried all day will have to be cooked later (nothing like adding more kilos! A bag of rice, some tuna, a tin of sweetcorn etc... oh what fun I have!)
Right then - that's me up to date. I've no idea where I'm going tomorrow apart from further West. The guide I bought doesn't cover the coastal route this far, so I'll just walk until I've had enough and then find somewhere to stop. There's something fun about the camino in such a spirit - no constant fretting over maps and distances, just following the arrows :0)
I'm off to digest the "pilgrim special" in the restaurant just as soon as it opens. A couple of younger Spanish lads in the albergue - that's about all one sees on this route really. I don't mind but they do have an annoying habit of talking on their mobiles after lights out. Oh well... it's the camino ;0)
Hey there Alan - Hope you're finding the arrows and the route OK on this free-wheeling section!
ReplyDeleteI do wish they'd stop building motorways! I can't believe they need that capacity there...however, maybe it's a substitute for building more unnecessary buildings!
Hope the rain is now keeping its distance, and you're enjoying the walk without slipping on wet leaves...I'm sure you'll make it to Santiago too, and we're confident of meeting up in the bar there soon! Also looking forward to seeing some of the photos from the last few days.
Hasta la vista, or whatever it is!
Hi Ruth,
ReplyDeleteYes, freewheeling is I suppose what it is :0)
All's good, thanks. Yes the days can come to seem more like hard work than when I originally set out, but then I'm more than six weeks living out of a rucksack. It's a very long way from terrible but I notice that one's priorities and thoughts change. While I've thought almost not at all about the routine I left behind (apart from my own bed!!) I seem to have acquired a focus on the small details such as "will it rain later?" and thus will I be able to wash my clothes today? Or "what are the feeding arrangements for this evening?" and does one buy in advance, or will there be a restaurant? All these sorts of things tend to keep one occupied. The walking is the least of it! :0)