With the last couple of days of cloudy and overcast weather behind us, I awoke fairly late (but still dark at 07:15) to find clear skies. Nice.
No real breakfast to speak of, but I'm not complaining because it would seem that here in Cantabria things have changed somewhat for the better, namely the cost of the accommodation.
While traveling through the Basque country it would seem that, for whatever reason, the availability of properties to house pilgrims has proved restrictive and thus either prices have been comparable to France (typically between 15 euros and 25 euros per night for a bed and breakfast, meals extra) or their highly seasonal nature has meant that one is left instead with a choice of private accommodation. An example of the difficulties faced arose during a brief discussion I had with the hospitalero in Gernika. He explained that the wonderful building we were housed in belonged to a number of the town's businesses (or typically it belongs to a college). Thus they would agree to its use as accommodation during certain parts of the academic or business year but would retake possession later, thereby ensuring closure of the premises.
Now that we are in Cantabria it would seem that albergues are much more widespread and, most importantly, either very affordable (4 euros or 5 euros per night) or "donativo" (but which actually works out to the same amount). Here's last night's accommodation:
So, after repacking the rucksacks we went walkabout in Castro-Urdiales to take in the ancient gothic church (closed) and the nearby fort and lighthouse. I did get to read the information panel beside the fort - that part at least was open for viewing - which explained how the fort had been built to a simple square design with no external openings at the ground floor and which meant that when under attack the towns residents, already hidden within the fort, could escape to sea to avoid capture and (according to the panel) transport on English ships. I also photographed the town hall and part of the old town on the waterfront. Castro-Urdiales was once the major port in Cantabria, and the status of its buildings reflects this. With the church closed, unfortunately we don't get to see the 14th century carved wooden Madonna that retains virtually all of its original polychrome finish.
That done I popped into the chemist and was recommended some Ibuprofen cream for my leg, which was now a bit painful to walk on. It's a matter of sufficient rest - something I'm quite prepared to take seriously. Another reason for a shorter stage today. There was a cafe opposite so a good excuse to apply the cream and have another of the lovely Spanish coffees. We had a small visitor while resting:
We strolled gently out of the town, the uphill gradient almost non-existent, and enjoyed a ramble along the coast in the warm sunshine.
After passing the small village of Cerdigo with its free public wifi (and a chance for a quick update!) we arrived just 9km later in Islares.
Up into a shaded copse with its ancient stone path, and then out onto the coast for the final couple of kilometres to Islares.
Islares is a small, peaceful and pretty little village right beside the sea, with a little whitewashed church.
I phoned the hospitalero via the number posted on the door and was instructed to retrieve the key and admit ourselves. So here I am, happily sitting in the cool of a clean and modern little communal albergue with Roland's company, resting my leg and enjoying the peace and pace.
It would be true to say that since Bilbao, my mood has changed subtly and I find that the camino seems to be taking on another, more peaceful form. It feels good to not need to worry about distances, or where one might stay, but instead to just enjoy each day as it comes and profit from both the weather and the facilities. I'm rather hoping that Roland returns from his trip to the village's only shop with a bottle of something Spanish and red :0)
In fact he did. A bottle of the local red along with bread, pasta, tomato, butter, jam and a tin of peaches. Enough for a meal and some breakfast.
After performing all the now customary actions - shower, clothes washing, cup of tea, diary - we ate. Just as we finished eating Joanna arrived. Joanna is the German woman we met by the bridge in Portugalete. It just shows how people one meets reappear suddenly. She was actually a lot of fun and we spent the remainder of the evening chatting all together and laughing about - well, everything really :0)
No real breakfast to speak of, but I'm not complaining because it would seem that here in Cantabria things have changed somewhat for the better, namely the cost of the accommodation.
While traveling through the Basque country it would seem that, for whatever reason, the availability of properties to house pilgrims has proved restrictive and thus either prices have been comparable to France (typically between 15 euros and 25 euros per night for a bed and breakfast, meals extra) or their highly seasonal nature has meant that one is left instead with a choice of private accommodation. An example of the difficulties faced arose during a brief discussion I had with the hospitalero in Gernika. He explained that the wonderful building we were housed in belonged to a number of the town's businesses (or typically it belongs to a college). Thus they would agree to its use as accommodation during certain parts of the academic or business year but would retake possession later, thereby ensuring closure of the premises.
Now that we are in Cantabria it would seem that albergues are much more widespread and, most importantly, either very affordable (4 euros or 5 euros per night) or "donativo" (but which actually works out to the same amount). Here's last night's accommodation:
So, after repacking the rucksacks we went walkabout in Castro-Urdiales to take in the ancient gothic church (closed) and the nearby fort and lighthouse. I did get to read the information panel beside the fort - that part at least was open for viewing - which explained how the fort had been built to a simple square design with no external openings at the ground floor and which meant that when under attack the towns residents, already hidden within the fort, could escape to sea to avoid capture and (according to the panel) transport on English ships. I also photographed the town hall and part of the old town on the waterfront. Castro-Urdiales was once the major port in Cantabria, and the status of its buildings reflects this. With the church closed, unfortunately we don't get to see the 14th century carved wooden Madonna that retains virtually all of its original polychrome finish.
That done I popped into the chemist and was recommended some Ibuprofen cream for my leg, which was now a bit painful to walk on. It's a matter of sufficient rest - something I'm quite prepared to take seriously. Another reason for a shorter stage today. There was a cafe opposite so a good excuse to apply the cream and have another of the lovely Spanish coffees. We had a small visitor while resting:
We strolled gently out of the town, the uphill gradient almost non-existent, and enjoyed a ramble along the coast in the warm sunshine.
After passing the small village of Cerdigo with its free public wifi (and a chance for a quick update!) we arrived just 9km later in Islares.
Up into a shaded copse with its ancient stone path, and then out onto the coast for the final couple of kilometres to Islares.
Islares is a small, peaceful and pretty little village right beside the sea, with a little whitewashed church.
It would be true to say that since Bilbao, my mood has changed subtly and I find that the camino seems to be taking on another, more peaceful form. It feels good to not need to worry about distances, or where one might stay, but instead to just enjoy each day as it comes and profit from both the weather and the facilities. I'm rather hoping that Roland returns from his trip to the village's only shop with a bottle of something Spanish and red :0)
In fact he did. A bottle of the local red along with bread, pasta, tomato, butter, jam and a tin of peaches. Enough for a meal and some breakfast.
After performing all the now customary actions - shower, clothes washing, cup of tea, diary - we ate. Just as we finished eating Joanna arrived. Joanna is the German woman we met by the bridge in Portugalete. It just shows how people one meets reappear suddenly. She was actually a lot of fun and we spent the remainder of the evening chatting all together and laughing about - well, everything really :0)
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