Another fine evening in the albergue. Some company (not all of it desired!) and I managed to put together a nutritious meal from what we bought in the supermarket - all for less than 5 euros :0)
I awoke around 07:20 and realised that the few in our room were stirring, so up I got and started packing. I poked my head out of the door and saw the stars. No clouds meant sunshine! Hey :0)
I waited until 08:20 and although not fully light I realised I was kicking my heels. Others had left for the bar and some breakfast but since the camino was just 50 metres away I headed off and up. The path went up an old track under mature chestnuts and it was still quite dark in the shade of the trees.
I came out onto the old road and walked in the growing daylight. This part of the camino is fairly high up (I can't tell you how high, I haven't got one of those fancy watches) and all around were green valleys and small groups of traditional houses and farms dotted about the heavily wooded hillsides. Oh joy - to be free of motorways and noise. And while almost the entirety of today's stage was on asphalt, I was enjoying myself again. I think the frustrations of keep being diverted alongside and around motorways are all a part of the experience. I'm not about to start trying to attach 'meaning' to this experience but I would say that two qualities (are they qualities?) that this walk engenders are patience and acceptance. One can't hurry (not that one should wish to) and one has to accept things as they are. In walking through those less than exciting days in Asturias, it has given new richness to these peaceful mountain views.
I realise that I enjoy walking alone. I greatly enjoy company at the end of the day, so it's nice to chat and share with other pilgrims. Today I lent my walking poles to Paco, who's had to make use of a taxi for the past two days on doctor's orders. Nothing serious apparently, but he accepted the offer. The fact that he's not here already means that he must be able to walk properly again :0)
Anyway, as I say I enjoyed the walk today. I listened to a variety of music including a fair session of Bob Marley, which made me positively bounce along in time to the music.
Within an hour or so I had reached a town called Mondoñedo (a pamphlet I've just been handed by the very helpful hospitalero here tell me that Mondoñedo is one of the Galician Episcopal Sees). The church, with its twin spires, had been visible for some while. I hadn't realised that I would be walking through it. As I entered the town it became clear that there was some form of local fiesta occurring, with designated parking laid out and, further ahead, market stalls preparing for a day's trading. The camino passed through the central square and in front of this massive church. And guess what? Nope - it was open! So of course I had to go in. I was glad I did - another Baroque altarpiece (I have photos) and some impressive architecture. I'm told by the same pamphlet that the church is Romanesque, but since it was built in the 13th century I guess it's quite late. Anyway, that cheered me up even more to actually find a church that is open :0) I did notice the main entrance portal and the impressive painted tympanum, as well as the painted frescoes inside. I now read that the façade underwent major alterations during the baroque period although the Romanesque portal remains, along with the rose window. The frescoes I mentioned (situated either side of the aisle below an impressive pair of Baroque organs) are apparently the work of "the master of Mondoñedo" - carried out in the early 16th century in Spanish-Flemish style. The altarpiece dates from 1769. Okay - enough reading information out of books!
I walked out past the ancient fountain, built in 1548 to ensure that nobody would go thirsty, least of all pilgrims. The way became quite hilly, with a fair bit of ascent and descent today. I took a lot more photos today because some of the scenery on this stage is really beautiful. The early sunlight on the mountain tops, the mist lifting out of the valleys - there was much to appreciate.
I walked on, listening to some early Bowie, thoroughly enjoying the walk, knowing that it wasn't a long stage.
And then - horror of horrors. Yes - the "m" word! Right in front of me - excavators and lorries, and a huge new expanse of four lane blacktop sweeping West, as yet unused. Oh my! They obviously need even more motorway than I'd thought!
There was a diversion in place. A shame I suppose, I was really enjoying this feeling of 'stability' of the camino. But it wasn't a very long diversion. The only downside really is that the altitude meant that I was now inside the low clouds sweeping over a distant crest. While I could see the sun high in the sky, I was walking in the cold and humid air of the clouds.
I arrived in Gontán at 13:00, some 25km from this morning's point of departure, and found a rather lovely modern albergue right beside the road. The hospitalero (Alberto) couldn't have been more helpful, and the place is one of the best I've yet stayed in in Spain or France. Very clean, LOTS of hot water (even for laundry, which is a rarity) and wi-fi included :0) There's a well equipped kitchen and if Carmen and others do arrive here today (there's the fiesta in Mondoñedo, people may decide to stay there) it means another evening of dining in - which is my preferred option at this stage of the journey.
So, all is well in Galicia. I've now got information about the next few days' stages - all of which are in good quality and cheap or 'donativo' albergues. It looks as if there are about 7 more stages to Santiago - so I guess that makes me about a week to go! But no rush, there's still plenty of walking to be done - and I'm not at Finisterra yet ;0)
I awoke around 07:20 and realised that the few in our room were stirring, so up I got and started packing. I poked my head out of the door and saw the stars. No clouds meant sunshine! Hey :0)
I waited until 08:20 and although not fully light I realised I was kicking my heels. Others had left for the bar and some breakfast but since the camino was just 50 metres away I headed off and up. The path went up an old track under mature chestnuts and it was still quite dark in the shade of the trees.
I came out onto the old road and walked in the growing daylight. This part of the camino is fairly high up (I can't tell you how high, I haven't got one of those fancy watches) and all around were green valleys and small groups of traditional houses and farms dotted about the heavily wooded hillsides. Oh joy - to be free of motorways and noise. And while almost the entirety of today's stage was on asphalt, I was enjoying myself again. I think the frustrations of keep being diverted alongside and around motorways are all a part of the experience. I'm not about to start trying to attach 'meaning' to this experience but I would say that two qualities (are they qualities?) that this walk engenders are patience and acceptance. One can't hurry (not that one should wish to) and one has to accept things as they are. In walking through those less than exciting days in Asturias, it has given new richness to these peaceful mountain views.
I realise that I enjoy walking alone. I greatly enjoy company at the end of the day, so it's nice to chat and share with other pilgrims. Today I lent my walking poles to Paco, who's had to make use of a taxi for the past two days on doctor's orders. Nothing serious apparently, but he accepted the offer. The fact that he's not here already means that he must be able to walk properly again :0)
Anyway, as I say I enjoyed the walk today. I listened to a variety of music including a fair session of Bob Marley, which made me positively bounce along in time to the music.
Within an hour or so I had reached a town called Mondoñedo (a pamphlet I've just been handed by the very helpful hospitalero here tell me that Mondoñedo is one of the Galician Episcopal Sees). The church, with its twin spires, had been visible for some while. I hadn't realised that I would be walking through it. As I entered the town it became clear that there was some form of local fiesta occurring, with designated parking laid out and, further ahead, market stalls preparing for a day's trading. The camino passed through the central square and in front of this massive church. And guess what? Nope - it was open! So of course I had to go in. I was glad I did - another Baroque altarpiece (I have photos) and some impressive architecture. I'm told by the same pamphlet that the church is Romanesque, but since it was built in the 13th century I guess it's quite late. Anyway, that cheered me up even more to actually find a church that is open :0) I did notice the main entrance portal and the impressive painted tympanum, as well as the painted frescoes inside. I now read that the façade underwent major alterations during the baroque period although the Romanesque portal remains, along with the rose window. The frescoes I mentioned (situated either side of the aisle below an impressive pair of Baroque organs) are apparently the work of "the master of Mondoñedo" - carried out in the early 16th century in Spanish-Flemish style. The altarpiece dates from 1769. Okay - enough reading information out of books!
I walked out past the ancient fountain, built in 1548 to ensure that nobody would go thirsty, least of all pilgrims. The way became quite hilly, with a fair bit of ascent and descent today. I took a lot more photos today because some of the scenery on this stage is really beautiful. The early sunlight on the mountain tops, the mist lifting out of the valleys - there was much to appreciate.
I walked on, listening to some early Bowie, thoroughly enjoying the walk, knowing that it wasn't a long stage.
And then - horror of horrors. Yes - the "m" word! Right in front of me - excavators and lorries, and a huge new expanse of four lane blacktop sweeping West, as yet unused. Oh my! They obviously need even more motorway than I'd thought!
There was a diversion in place. A shame I suppose, I was really enjoying this feeling of 'stability' of the camino. But it wasn't a very long diversion. The only downside really is that the altitude meant that I was now inside the low clouds sweeping over a distant crest. While I could see the sun high in the sky, I was walking in the cold and humid air of the clouds.
I arrived in Gontán at 13:00, some 25km from this morning's point of departure, and found a rather lovely modern albergue right beside the road. The hospitalero (Alberto) couldn't have been more helpful, and the place is one of the best I've yet stayed in in Spain or France. Very clean, LOTS of hot water (even for laundry, which is a rarity) and wi-fi included :0) There's a well equipped kitchen and if Carmen and others do arrive here today (there's the fiesta in Mondoñedo, people may decide to stay there) it means another evening of dining in - which is my preferred option at this stage of the journey.
So, all is well in Galicia. I've now got information about the next few days' stages - all of which are in good quality and cheap or 'donativo' albergues. It looks as if there are about 7 more stages to Santiago - so I guess that makes me about a week to go! But no rush, there's still plenty of walking to be done - and I'm not at Finisterra yet ;0)
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