The albergue at San Esteban was basic yet functional. The main concern was nourishment or lack of, and to that end we had been assured that breakfast would be available at Berbes, just 3km from the albergue. I proposed to Joost that we might leave early in order to take breakfast at an early opportunity and he agreed, so at 07:30, with it still pitch black we set off, with my headlamp glowing, on the road to Berbes.
I could see if not feel the rain spitting by the light of the lamp and within 20 minutes or so it was sufficiently strong that we stopped to put on the rain gear.
We arrived in Berbes in daylight to find the bar closed! Oh well, on to the next port of call. The camino passes close to the coast and we wandered among sandy, deserted beaches in the silvery light - the rain falling steadily but not very hard. It was peaceful and scenic.
The next location that the guide suggested migh offer refreshment was also closed, so on we walked. The weather was damp but not cold, and despite the drizzle the camino was beautiful. After several further abortive attempts to find an open bar (this part of the coast seems very seasonal judging by the number of hotels and chalets) we pressed on to the next major town of Colunga. We were in luck (well, we certainly should have been - it was now almost midday!). On our way out of town we bought a couple of large chocolate biscuits of a type typical here in Spain. I've no idea what they'd be called in English but since today's stage included no further towns or villages with shops or bars we had to make best we could for nourishment during the day.
After coffee in a local bar we set out again, and now the sun came out. Nice :0) The path from Colugna headed out into the hills on a quiet surfaced road with virtually no traffic. The walking was pleasant. We had left early and made good time, and shortly after midday were more than halfway through our 32km stage.
The road began to climb - up among green pasture that held cows with bells, and views of distant pine forest. Joost said it could have been Bavaria in springtime. I have to take his word for it ;0)
We climbed higher and as we climbed the weather changed once more. Dark clouds appeared. It should be no surprise at all to see the rain- after all, this is much more the weather we are told to expect along the northern coast in October. The climb took us past sleepy, traditional hamlets of old farms with their elaborate granaries in stone stilts. We arrived at the tiny village of Pernús with its old, traditional church where we saw a german woman resting in the porch. We had bumped into her yesterday on the seafront at Ribadesella. After a brief chat we pushed on. Now we had reached the highest point of the path at a place called Priesca. Here awaited the most wonderful surprise. The guides always tend to list churches, monasteries and suchlike. We were aware that there was yet another church on top of this hill, but what we weren't aware of (until we arrived) was the the church of San Salvador was a pre-Romanesque church built in 959 and which (according to the plaque) retained portions of the original wall painting!!
Of course it was closed BUT just as I said to Joost how much I'd really like to visit this one particular church, a woman popped out of her front door nearby and I asked her if she knew anything about the opening times. Her reply was "I'm just coming" and less than a minute later we followed her towards the church as she extracted her key :0)
Oh my - this was truly something to behold. I took lots of photos (allowed) and the painting was indeed visible. It was a small and simple design but I was so impressed to find an intact church more than 1000 years old in its original state. We donated a few euros - which she gratefully told us would help pay for the flowers.
We felt it was time for the chocolate biscuits so we sat on a bench nearby and began our 'lunch' just as the heavens opened. Now it really was raining. No problem though - we finished eating under the shelter of the large tree and donned our waterproofs before setting out again.
The path descended quite steeply now, and the going was difficult in the wet. What would otherwise have been simply an ancient, scenic stone path now became a slippery source of potential injury. We picked our way downhill using the walking poles. Once on the flat we continued through apple orchards and pasture. Our destination lay beyond the suggested resting point of Sobrayes and its communal albergue. Joost had information that suggested there were albergues available in Villaviciosa. And our reason for making the extra distance relates directly to tomorrow's stage. Tomorrow we are heading to Gijón. The path out of Gijón heads almost directly up to 400 metres, followed by a steep descent and a further ascent of 200 metres. Rather than stop six kilometres short of the climb in Sobrayes, and thus have to begin climbing after more than an hour's walking, the idea was to get closer to the hills while leaving ourselves a more manageable 26km tomorrow.
The path wound onward and by now my feet were getting tired. This was the third long day in a row and I could feel it. The rain had dropped to intermittent showers, so I was walking in full rain gear mostly because it meant I was free from having to keep trying to decide whether to put it on or take it off. Better to simply leave it on and keep walking. I was glad I did because there were wet squalls about.
We rolled into Villaviciosa around 16:00 and I asked about for the location of the Youth Hostel, only to be told that there wasn't one and that furthermore there were no albergues of any kind in town!
Fortunately we had noted some details stuck to a tree some 10km back, which advertised a hotel in town offering a special rate for pilgrims. We turned a couple of corners on our way to the centre of town and there was the Hotel Carlos I waiting for us.
30 euro for a twin room with shower. Yes please! Much preferable to another night in a common dorm with all that entails. The hotel is really rather splendid.
We went out to eat early, aware that no restaurant in Spain is open before 20:00 hrs. We settled on what looked like a nice traditional bar offering pinchos and ordered a bottle of wine and some assorted plates.
A very nice evening in what was clearly a local establishment, and very good value for money.
Tomorrow is a holiday throughout Spain, although it won't affect our accommodation or dining. Weather forecast isn't too good from now until Sunday, but from Monday things will be brightening up again. All in all it's been good to get the distances done but I would suggest that this part of the camino is quite challenging. There are long stretches of beautiful countryside and coast but not much else. It requires long hours to cover it all and arrive in a suitable town.
One further thing to note: I am now just past the point where the camino del Norte descends onto the camino Primitivo and its journey over the mountains of Asturias. I am now 'committed' to the northern coastal route. This was a choice. I had spoken at some length to Toni about his experiences a couple of years back when walking the primitivo. It is beautiful but very, very isolated in stretches. One can walk all day and pass nothign more than a few ruins and a lot of nature. Accommodation can be scarce, and the walking is hard. If the weather turns against you it can be very miserable and tough going. So I'm going to follow the northern coast until we turn south at Ribaduero.
Right, I think that's everything. I think we're going to repeat the private accommodation idea tomorrow, so I hope to have further updates. The ONLY available albergue at Gijón is the wooden huts at a campsite some 4km before the city. While it's been good to take advantage of the albergues and the discounted rates, one ends up spending every evening in the company of the same few fellow pilgrims. It's nice to be in a larger town or city and be able to get out into the streets and enjoy the ambience.
I could see if not feel the rain spitting by the light of the lamp and within 20 minutes or so it was sufficiently strong that we stopped to put on the rain gear.
We arrived in Berbes in daylight to find the bar closed! Oh well, on to the next port of call. The camino passes close to the coast and we wandered among sandy, deserted beaches in the silvery light - the rain falling steadily but not very hard. It was peaceful and scenic.
The next location that the guide suggested migh offer refreshment was also closed, so on we walked. The weather was damp but not cold, and despite the drizzle the camino was beautiful. After several further abortive attempts to find an open bar (this part of the coast seems very seasonal judging by the number of hotels and chalets) we pressed on to the next major town of Colunga. We were in luck (well, we certainly should have been - it was now almost midday!). On our way out of town we bought a couple of large chocolate biscuits of a type typical here in Spain. I've no idea what they'd be called in English but since today's stage included no further towns or villages with shops or bars we had to make best we could for nourishment during the day.
After coffee in a local bar we set out again, and now the sun came out. Nice :0) The path from Colugna headed out into the hills on a quiet surfaced road with virtually no traffic. The walking was pleasant. We had left early and made good time, and shortly after midday were more than halfway through our 32km stage.
The road began to climb - up among green pasture that held cows with bells, and views of distant pine forest. Joost said it could have been Bavaria in springtime. I have to take his word for it ;0)
We climbed higher and as we climbed the weather changed once more. Dark clouds appeared. It should be no surprise at all to see the rain- after all, this is much more the weather we are told to expect along the northern coast in October. The climb took us past sleepy, traditional hamlets of old farms with their elaborate granaries in stone stilts. We arrived at the tiny village of Pernús with its old, traditional church where we saw a german woman resting in the porch. We had bumped into her yesterday on the seafront at Ribadesella. After a brief chat we pushed on. Now we had reached the highest point of the path at a place called Priesca. Here awaited the most wonderful surprise. The guides always tend to list churches, monasteries and suchlike. We were aware that there was yet another church on top of this hill, but what we weren't aware of (until we arrived) was the the church of San Salvador was a pre-Romanesque church built in 959 and which (according to the plaque) retained portions of the original wall painting!!
Of course it was closed BUT just as I said to Joost how much I'd really like to visit this one particular church, a woman popped out of her front door nearby and I asked her if she knew anything about the opening times. Her reply was "I'm just coming" and less than a minute later we followed her towards the church as she extracted her key :0)
Oh my - this was truly something to behold. I took lots of photos (allowed) and the painting was indeed visible. It was a small and simple design but I was so impressed to find an intact church more than 1000 years old in its original state. We donated a few euros - which she gratefully told us would help pay for the flowers.
We felt it was time for the chocolate biscuits so we sat on a bench nearby and began our 'lunch' just as the heavens opened. Now it really was raining. No problem though - we finished eating under the shelter of the large tree and donned our waterproofs before setting out again.
The path descended quite steeply now, and the going was difficult in the wet. What would otherwise have been simply an ancient, scenic stone path now became a slippery source of potential injury. We picked our way downhill using the walking poles. Once on the flat we continued through apple orchards and pasture. Our destination lay beyond the suggested resting point of Sobrayes and its communal albergue. Joost had information that suggested there were albergues available in Villaviciosa. And our reason for making the extra distance relates directly to tomorrow's stage. Tomorrow we are heading to Gijón. The path out of Gijón heads almost directly up to 400 metres, followed by a steep descent and a further ascent of 200 metres. Rather than stop six kilometres short of the climb in Sobrayes, and thus have to begin climbing after more than an hour's walking, the idea was to get closer to the hills while leaving ourselves a more manageable 26km tomorrow.
The path wound onward and by now my feet were getting tired. This was the third long day in a row and I could feel it. The rain had dropped to intermittent showers, so I was walking in full rain gear mostly because it meant I was free from having to keep trying to decide whether to put it on or take it off. Better to simply leave it on and keep walking. I was glad I did because there were wet squalls about.
We rolled into Villaviciosa around 16:00 and I asked about for the location of the Youth Hostel, only to be told that there wasn't one and that furthermore there were no albergues of any kind in town!
Fortunately we had noted some details stuck to a tree some 10km back, which advertised a hotel in town offering a special rate for pilgrims. We turned a couple of corners on our way to the centre of town and there was the Hotel Carlos I waiting for us.
30 euro for a twin room with shower. Yes please! Much preferable to another night in a common dorm with all that entails. The hotel is really rather splendid.
We went out to eat early, aware that no restaurant in Spain is open before 20:00 hrs. We settled on what looked like a nice traditional bar offering pinchos and ordered a bottle of wine and some assorted plates.
A very nice evening in what was clearly a local establishment, and very good value for money.
Tomorrow is a holiday throughout Spain, although it won't affect our accommodation or dining. Weather forecast isn't too good from now until Sunday, but from Monday things will be brightening up again. All in all it's been good to get the distances done but I would suggest that this part of the camino is quite challenging. There are long stretches of beautiful countryside and coast but not much else. It requires long hours to cover it all and arrive in a suitable town.
One further thing to note: I am now just past the point where the camino del Norte descends onto the camino Primitivo and its journey over the mountains of Asturias. I am now 'committed' to the northern coastal route. This was a choice. I had spoken at some length to Toni about his experiences a couple of years back when walking the primitivo. It is beautiful but very, very isolated in stretches. One can walk all day and pass nothign more than a few ruins and a lot of nature. Accommodation can be scarce, and the walking is hard. If the weather turns against you it can be very miserable and tough going. So I'm going to follow the northern coast until we turn south at Ribaduero.
Right, I think that's everything. I think we're going to repeat the private accommodation idea tomorrow, so I hope to have further updates. The ONLY available albergue at Gijón is the wooden huts at a campsite some 4km before the city. While it's been good to take advantage of the albergues and the discounted rates, one ends up spending every evening in the company of the same few fellow pilgrims. It's nice to be in a larger town or city and be able to get out into the streets and enjoy the ambience.
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