The albergue in Póo was delightful. Joost and I were the only residents and not only did that make things peaceful and calm, it also allowed us to wander up a short lane into the local bar which Joost had noticed was a "Sidreria" - which means cider. A bottle of 70cl - equivalent to a wine bottle cost 2,30 euros. I've no real experience with cider but it seemed perfectly quaffable.
Breakfast had been mentioned the previous evening: 08:00, positively luxurious. As it turned out there was no breakfast prepared and Ivan, the hospitalero, was nowhere to be seen. We headed back to the bar instead and found more coffee and something to eat.
The day was slightly overcast but warm - already in the 20s by the time we began walking. Today's stage was going to be longer - 32km in fact.
The camino passed quickly towards the beach and we walked alongside the various bays and beaches, the lack of direct sun allowing us to walk in cooler temperatures today.
We passed the old monastery of San Salvador and on past more beaches and cliffs. We then approached another noted church - that of Nuestra Senora de Los Dolores - which sat proudly on its coastal promontory looking for all the world as if it belonged in some central American colony. This custom begun by the early Spanish and Portuguese merchants of introducing the archtectural styles of the Spanish colonies has spread all along this coast and applies to the houses, churches, chapels and farms. One sees many foreign species of plants such as palm trees, cacti and bougainvillea all growing happily in this temperate climate.
We were more than a third of the way through our day and stopped in a small bar for a coffee.
More beaches passed and still the weather remained mild and cooler than previous afternoons. The many farms and old houses - many restored to their former glories - I found fascinating; large estates with grand colonial style houses and mature trees.
The walking was almost completely flat with just a few slight gradients. The eucalyptus have invaded everywhere and although they give good shade, their quick growth and appetite for water are having a disastrous effect on local ecosystems.
The early afternoon hours were the more challenging. With 24km under our belts and still no sight of our next destination - Ribadesellas - these often seem the hardest walking. We arrived in Ribadesellas shortly after 14:00 and headed straight for the nearest restaurant. I had a snack, despite being aware that the chosen albergue for tonight offered no meals and had no kitchen. There was a bar close by (1.5km) but I chose to simply allow the evening to unfold rather than try to plan everything to the smallest detail.
After a rest in Ribadesellas we set out for the final 5km with renewed vigour. The path took us over the bridge and out along the promenade with its peculiar collection of "chalets" - which is the name that has been given to what are actually rather grand, architect designed seaside houses.
It began to spit with rain but nothing that would require waterproofs. Only a couple of kilometres to go and the path turned uphill. Just as some sort of final test for the day we began a kilometre of steep ascent into the hamlet of San Esteban as the rain started to fall more heavily.
We arrived at our destination under a light drizzle. The hospitalero received us warmly and we were soon happily installed and showered as we saw the rain get heavier. This is the first real rain I've seen on the camino.
Having asked about food I was informed that the nearest bar was now 3km away but that the bus stop directly outside would deliver us quickly in time for the evening meal, with a convenient return journey. As it turned out that option became unnecessary. Despite my desire to consume as many calories as I possibly can each day (and particularly during long stages), we were by now six in this somewhat remote location and offers to share food came quickly. So, a most satisfying impromptu feast was organised and we dined on bread, salami, cheese, grapes, pears, yoghurt and tea - finished off with chocolate biscuits! The spirit of the meal more than made up for any possible lack of presentation :0)
Tomorrow is another long stage, with an equivalent (or possibly greater) distance the day after. Planning is now important. Albergues are widely spaced in this part of Asturias. The aim is to avoid putting in a short day of only 20km or less to then find that the next albergue is now 40km away. So one is rather bound by availability, even with a desire to be flexible or to allow things to unfold more organically. It's stopped raining by now and tomorrow looks like being another nice day - but that's tomorrow.
Night all.
Breakfast had been mentioned the previous evening: 08:00, positively luxurious. As it turned out there was no breakfast prepared and Ivan, the hospitalero, was nowhere to be seen. We headed back to the bar instead and found more coffee and something to eat.
The day was slightly overcast but warm - already in the 20s by the time we began walking. Today's stage was going to be longer - 32km in fact.
The camino passed quickly towards the beach and we walked alongside the various bays and beaches, the lack of direct sun allowing us to walk in cooler temperatures today.
We passed the old monastery of San Salvador and on past more beaches and cliffs. We then approached another noted church - that of Nuestra Senora de Los Dolores - which sat proudly on its coastal promontory looking for all the world as if it belonged in some central American colony. This custom begun by the early Spanish and Portuguese merchants of introducing the archtectural styles of the Spanish colonies has spread all along this coast and applies to the houses, churches, chapels and farms. One sees many foreign species of plants such as palm trees, cacti and bougainvillea all growing happily in this temperate climate.
We were more than a third of the way through our day and stopped in a small bar for a coffee.
More beaches passed and still the weather remained mild and cooler than previous afternoons. The many farms and old houses - many restored to their former glories - I found fascinating; large estates with grand colonial style houses and mature trees.
The walking was almost completely flat with just a few slight gradients. The eucalyptus have invaded everywhere and although they give good shade, their quick growth and appetite for water are having a disastrous effect on local ecosystems.
The early afternoon hours were the more challenging. With 24km under our belts and still no sight of our next destination - Ribadesellas - these often seem the hardest walking. We arrived in Ribadesellas shortly after 14:00 and headed straight for the nearest restaurant. I had a snack, despite being aware that the chosen albergue for tonight offered no meals and had no kitchen. There was a bar close by (1.5km) but I chose to simply allow the evening to unfold rather than try to plan everything to the smallest detail.
After a rest in Ribadesellas we set out for the final 5km with renewed vigour. The path took us over the bridge and out along the promenade with its peculiar collection of "chalets" - which is the name that has been given to what are actually rather grand, architect designed seaside houses.
It began to spit with rain but nothing that would require waterproofs. Only a couple of kilometres to go and the path turned uphill. Just as some sort of final test for the day we began a kilometre of steep ascent into the hamlet of San Esteban as the rain started to fall more heavily.
We arrived at our destination under a light drizzle. The hospitalero received us warmly and we were soon happily installed and showered as we saw the rain get heavier. This is the first real rain I've seen on the camino.
Having asked about food I was informed that the nearest bar was now 3km away but that the bus stop directly outside would deliver us quickly in time for the evening meal, with a convenient return journey. As it turned out that option became unnecessary. Despite my desire to consume as many calories as I possibly can each day (and particularly during long stages), we were by now six in this somewhat remote location and offers to share food came quickly. So, a most satisfying impromptu feast was organised and we dined on bread, salami, cheese, grapes, pears, yoghurt and tea - finished off with chocolate biscuits! The spirit of the meal more than made up for any possible lack of presentation :0)
Tomorrow is another long stage, with an equivalent (or possibly greater) distance the day after. Planning is now important. Albergues are widely spaced in this part of Asturias. The aim is to avoid putting in a short day of only 20km or less to then find that the next albergue is now 40km away. So one is rather bound by availability, even with a desire to be flexible or to allow things to unfold more organically. It's stopped raining by now and tomorrow looks like being another nice day - but that's tomorrow.
Night all.
No comments:
Post a Comment