Saturday, October 6, 2012

06/10/12: Bóo de Pielagos

The rules of the albergue were strictly enforced and it was chucking out time by 08:00. Not terribly helpful for anyone who hadn't slept all that well - and once again there were the snoring machines switched on!!! Still, there were both new and old faces around by daylight and a bunch of us went out in search of breakfast.


I wasn't in any particular hurry to leave - for several reasons! - and we found a bar serving churros and chocolate. A fine breakfast for any pilgrim :0)

A while later we said various goodbyes and I wandered into town with Begonia to find some wifi and to check out an outdoor shop I'd seen yesterday and which I hoped might be able to replace the small torch I used to carry clipped to my rucksack. I was in luck, although I paid double what I'd paid in Toulouse. Oh well, it was a well used item.

After more coffee and some email I went in search of the camino, which is very well marked in the area by cast paving at all junctions. We walked and talked but finally there was nothing else to be done but say goodbye. I was both surprised and a little confused at how much I realised I didn't want to part company with this lovely woman, but she had a plane to catch, and this isn't a Hollywood movie. It was a bittersweet parting - once more on the camino and in search of places and adventures to come.

The day wasn't hot - unlike yesterday which was broadcasting 36 degrees from the pharmacy in the square (the afternoon on the beach dropped to a positively chilly 28 degrees!) and light cloud threatened rain.

The walk out of Santander takes one past retail zones and tyre repair workshops - not the most attractive of walking but I'm more than happy to walk ALL of my camino. There were others who talked of taking the bus or train to the outskirts, but personally I see no point whatsover in going on a walk only to then use public transport.

In fact just like Toulouse the way really wasn't especially grim or horrible. I enjoyed walking again and my leg felt surprisingly good. The previous day's wandering about had actually caused more slight pain, thus risking the healing I'd done, but I was pleasantly surprised to find that it felt quite normal. Lose one thing, gain another :0)

The waymarks disappeared as I left Santander but I was assured they would reappear further on


The walk wasn't particularly photogenic, but I was soon in Bezanos and directed towards the church where indeed the waymarking reappeared. I wondered a little about the people of Betanzos. Judging from this furniture store they were all VERY tall ;0)


I wandered through a few small hamlets, noticing a nicely restored traditional house and another that carried a plaque describing the architects who designed it, although I snapped only a quick photo as the owner appeared:



A quiet wander through the lanes - it was very nice to be back among the hills and the green. Cities are very fine and stimulating, but they are also noisy and busy. I'm sure had it not been for Begonia's constant "mind out" as I wandered, unconcerned, across roads and junctions I would have broken a limb by now! Anyway, Bóo de Pielagos soon arrived and there was no need to think very hard about whether to stay. I'd been walking a few hours only - enough to exercise my leg but not enough to overdo things. Another short day wouldn't hurt.


I'm very pleased I decided to stay. Noor was quite right about this being such a lovely albergue. It's like being in someone's home - the apartments are so beautifully finished. I have a bed with sheets! and the shower has fresh towels! These simple things are so cheering when one has learned to live with the contents of a rucksack, which include a microfibre towel (basically a large jiffy cloth). Drying oneself with a cotton towel felt like such a luxury.

I've ordered dinner for 19:30, and breakfast is included, all within budget. How nice :0) And of course they have wifi.

Tomorrow will be a longer stage which will include a free train ride. West of here is a reasonably sized delta where the Rio Saja discharges into the Bay of Biscay. To walk around this is a detour of about 9km and the local councils have noticed a previous tendency of certain pilgrims to short-cut the route by walking along the railway that crosses the bay! After a pilgrim was killed by a train, they decided to offer a free journey to pilgrims ONLY between adjacent stations. So I shall be hopping onto the train at some point tomorrow morning, on my way to Polanco or Santillana.

Bye for now :0)

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