The night in the small but appointed hotel in Villaviciosa was a night of deep rest. Nice.
There was no need to rush in the morning (there never is!). Breakfast had been delivered the previous evening and the coffee in the thermos was still hot. A minimal breakfast really - and most of which we carried with us for the walk, especially considering that all shops were closed today because of the holiday. It helps to have something to snack on while walking.
We left after 08:00 but the skies were still a little dark - the sun is rising noticeably later each day. We headed out of town past the old church (yup - another old church ;0)) of Santa Maria, looking lovely by floodlight. The day was breaking and we headed across a small park and out of town. The rain was threatening, so we stopped to don the waterproofs. Once again it made the walking easier because there remained no need to keep watching the skies.
We walked for an hour or more, expecting the 400 metre climb to appear. Eventually it did and we set off under the now heavy rain on a fairly steep ascent. Walking on an ancient trail under chestnut and walnut trees, the path was slippery with fallen leaves and the polished rocks. The climb went directly up without pause for a couple of kilometres, all of it very well marked (as is all of the camino thus far in Asturias).
We crested the hill around three and a half hours after leaving the hotel, very glad that we had walked the extra kilometres the previous day to leave us close to the ascents.
Once down the other side we were in the village of Peón where a bar appeared. A large coffee later, among the dozens of ramblers using the location as the starting point for a local walk, and we set out for the second and smaller climb of the day. The weather had improved so we stowed the waterproofs. Much better. I have discovered something that will be of no surprise to any experienced walker, namely that a simple poncho and over-trousers will keep in almost as much moisture as they keep out! The problem with this is that after an hour or more of exertion, one begins to feel chilled by the condensing vapour inside the clothing. Anyway, having been slightly chilled by the initial climb, the weather now allowed me to walk minus the waterproofs. Within fifteen minutes it was as if it had never rained!
We passsed through the village of El Curbiello at the top of the second climb and headed down towards Gijón - which was now visible. I find it always feels much easier to walk towards a visible destination than to have to walk on not knowing if there remain thirty minutes or two hours of walking.
We passed a surprisingly large and impressive building on the outskirst of Gijón - the Cuidad Laboral. This is an enormous complex built by Franco in a vaguely neo-classical style and contains a church and viewing tower. In its day it was an 'education centre' for the children of miners and other low paid workers.
After another coffee break we headed into the city centre. We passed by the beach and into the old city centre. While we knew that the only albergue accredited to Gijón is actually 4km before the city, in a campsite, we felt that after yesterday's result with the hotel we might find similar accommodation here. We weren't wrong. A nice downmarket hostal near the beach cost us 12 euros each. Two basic beds, a creaky armoire and a wonky mirror over a cracked washbasin had exactly the right air of traveling salesmen. Well - a pilgrim isn't much different I guess ;0)
So, after the necessaries (and the landlady kindly agreeing to put our gear in the washing machine) we headed out into the city, armed with tourist map, to peek at the numerous landmarks. Gijón is an impressive city that must have been here a long time. Next to the old Roman baths on the harbourside is a statue of Octavius Augustus. I haven't looked up the history of this place but perhaps Gijón was within his domain. Either way, we photographed our fair share of 16th and 17th century palaces, churches and chapels ;0) Of particular interest was the interior of the church of San Pedro right on the harbour front. The interior decoration contains mosaic frecoes (can such things exist?) in a modern style that recall the ancient Roman mosaics of early Christian churches. I wanted to add some details here such as names of the artists etc. but in using the free wifi in one of the (many) bars here, it's now time to eat and I have no further inclination to spend time looking stuff up on the internet. Anyway, once again it was a good decision to press on to the major town/city and enjoy a little Spanish life ;0)
Tomorrow Aviles. Right now it's time to eat! :0)
There was no need to rush in the morning (there never is!). Breakfast had been delivered the previous evening and the coffee in the thermos was still hot. A minimal breakfast really - and most of which we carried with us for the walk, especially considering that all shops were closed today because of the holiday. It helps to have something to snack on while walking.
We left after 08:00 but the skies were still a little dark - the sun is rising noticeably later each day. We headed out of town past the old church (yup - another old church ;0)) of Santa Maria, looking lovely by floodlight. The day was breaking and we headed across a small park and out of town. The rain was threatening, so we stopped to don the waterproofs. Once again it made the walking easier because there remained no need to keep watching the skies.
We walked for an hour or more, expecting the 400 metre climb to appear. Eventually it did and we set off under the now heavy rain on a fairly steep ascent. Walking on an ancient trail under chestnut and walnut trees, the path was slippery with fallen leaves and the polished rocks. The climb went directly up without pause for a couple of kilometres, all of it very well marked (as is all of the camino thus far in Asturias).
We crested the hill around three and a half hours after leaving the hotel, very glad that we had walked the extra kilometres the previous day to leave us close to the ascents.
Once down the other side we were in the village of Peón where a bar appeared. A large coffee later, among the dozens of ramblers using the location as the starting point for a local walk, and we set out for the second and smaller climb of the day. The weather had improved so we stowed the waterproofs. Much better. I have discovered something that will be of no surprise to any experienced walker, namely that a simple poncho and over-trousers will keep in almost as much moisture as they keep out! The problem with this is that after an hour or more of exertion, one begins to feel chilled by the condensing vapour inside the clothing. Anyway, having been slightly chilled by the initial climb, the weather now allowed me to walk minus the waterproofs. Within fifteen minutes it was as if it had never rained!
We passsed through the village of El Curbiello at the top of the second climb and headed down towards Gijón - which was now visible. I find it always feels much easier to walk towards a visible destination than to have to walk on not knowing if there remain thirty minutes or two hours of walking.
We passed a surprisingly large and impressive building on the outskirst of Gijón - the Cuidad Laboral. This is an enormous complex built by Franco in a vaguely neo-classical style and contains a church and viewing tower. In its day it was an 'education centre' for the children of miners and other low paid workers.
After another coffee break we headed into the city centre. We passed by the beach and into the old city centre. While we knew that the only albergue accredited to Gijón is actually 4km before the city, in a campsite, we felt that after yesterday's result with the hotel we might find similar accommodation here. We weren't wrong. A nice downmarket hostal near the beach cost us 12 euros each. Two basic beds, a creaky armoire and a wonky mirror over a cracked washbasin had exactly the right air of traveling salesmen. Well - a pilgrim isn't much different I guess ;0)
So, after the necessaries (and the landlady kindly agreeing to put our gear in the washing machine) we headed out into the city, armed with tourist map, to peek at the numerous landmarks. Gijón is an impressive city that must have been here a long time. Next to the old Roman baths on the harbourside is a statue of Octavius Augustus. I haven't looked up the history of this place but perhaps Gijón was within his domain. Either way, we photographed our fair share of 16th and 17th century palaces, churches and chapels ;0) Of particular interest was the interior of the church of San Pedro right on the harbour front. The interior decoration contains mosaic frecoes (can such things exist?) in a modern style that recall the ancient Roman mosaics of early Christian churches. I wanted to add some details here such as names of the artists etc. but in using the free wifi in one of the (many) bars here, it's now time to eat and I have no further inclination to spend time looking stuff up on the internet. Anyway, once again it was a good decision to press on to the major town/city and enjoy a little Spanish life ;0)
Tomorrow Aviles. Right now it's time to eat! :0)
Good choice. Feed the body and the hearts and minds will follow.
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