16/10/12: Piñera

I'll begin again with a brief recap of last night.

What a fun evening that was! Three pilgrims from the previous albergue showed up: Emilio; Xavi and Mercedes. Our albergue was on the edge of town and the only shop half a kilometre away. I offered to share the food I've been carrying and they agreed, at which point they went out to buy additional supplies. We ended up staying in the albergue and cooking up a fine meal of rice, eggs, tuna in tomato sauce and umm - whatever else was at hand. Oh, and a rather lovely salad appeared too :0)

This, it seems, is how the camino 'works'. One has bad days (I got very frustrated and annoyed by the way the camino was being carved up by new roads) and yet something happens to make it a good day. Last night was just such an event, and I went to sleep feeling very happy with the way the day had turned out.
I rose in daylight. No point in getting up in the dark and then hanging about waiting for the light. We sat around eating a few bits and pieces for breakfast, while I shared my tea bags. I really enjoy this kind of sharing, it makes everything taste a little richer.

We were all heading in the same direction today but I left first. The skies were cloudy and damp and I left with my waterproofs on. I was happy that the proper waymarking had returned (funny how such things can make a difference) and I didn't mind the spitting, intermittent light showers.

My way took me out near the coast - probably very pretty on a clear day - and through many small hamlets dotted around the hills. It was a fairly direct walk almost dead east.

Just before midday I arrived in Almuña where the next albergue was located, but since I'd only been walking for less than four hours and the rain we had been told to expect was thus far showing no signs of appearing, I decided to press on. It was about 25km further to the next albergue in Piñera but I felt it worth a try.

I was enjoying my walk today. The spirit of sharing in the albergue last night I found touching, and today the camino was much more clearly marked, with the tradtional cast ceramic shells posted at frequent intervals. This makes the walking so much more pleasant (for me, in any case) in not having to constantly search high and low at every junction to ensure that one isn't about to take a ten kilometre detour!

I was quickly in Luarca. An interesting town that appeared, like many of these ancient ports, to have an historic quarter. I descended steeply down the cliffs into the centre, over a bridge and climb back up the other side. The camino out of town went due West - the old Camino Real (Royal).

This part of the coast is not at all busy at this time of year. Music was my companion for the walk. There are no other pilgrims about - or none that I've seen anyway.

Just as I was thinking that the horrors of the impending motorway might now be behind us, what do I see appear before me but two new tunnels into the adjacent hillside and a sign for a "temporary" diversion to the camino. Hmm. In an instant my peace was ruined as I was diverted back onto a main road and making a fairly steep climb. A few more twists and turns and then down a badly made track, where all of a sudden I approach the enormous cutting through the landscape that is the route of the new roads. As I cast about for a route, hoping that I wouldn't have to go back, I noticed that there was a marker installed in the middle of the path of the motorway! I walked right across the earthworks, along the opposite side, and back over the cutting. Mad! I was now following temporary waymarkers and after another fairly steep descent I was thrust into the main road - this time with NO shoulder to walk on, and facing large lorries charging just inches past my rucksack. I swore. This didn't look much like the UNESCO listed "European Heritage Site" that the signs so proudly display. I realise I am going on a bit about the road building and the diversions, but I find it oddly disturbing that such an ancient route can be so simply dismissed, to be recreated elsewhere but lacking any deeper connection to pilgrimage. I'm close to turning inland for the final leg to Santiago. I don't expect to find the camino so comprehensively destroyed. I would go as far as to suggest (as I did the other day) that from Santillana, one can take a bus to visit Gijón and Avilés but that the walk itself - well, I'm not sure it will be classed as particularly enjoyable or interesting.

Anyway, the horrors didn't last too long and I was eventually back on the more peaceful lanes. Fortunately I had covered most of today's distance by now and a small map by a hotel showed me that I had less than an hour to my destination.

With aching feet (something like 35km today, and for some reason I didn't stop at all) I signed in a house in advance of the albergue and headed off with the key. Having a key told me that the place was locked. Since the place was locked... Yup, I arrived to find the place empty. That's okay - it makes for a calm arrival. I showered and went shopping for microwaveable food. Piñera is one of those stopping points that has no amenities beyond the albergue. Some enterprising soul has set up a small shop on the edge of town but other than that one has to fend for oneself. There is a hotel 2km previous where I imagine many pilgrims choose to share a room, but that's obviously difficult when walking alone ;0)

So, a quiet evening in the albergue. It looks as if the others stopped in Almuña so I have the place to myself. I'm currently sitting here writing my blog, snug under some blankets and listening to the hissing of cars passing outside. Whether it will rain tomorrow is currently not important. Right now things are good. I'll have no problem sleeping tonight - although the temperatures are starting to drop in the evenings. Two blankets tonight!

:0)

15/10/12: Cadadevo

Well, things are certainly improving in some respects here in Asturias. This is the second of a number of free albergues which, it has to be said, have come at a very helpful time. Had I had to continue the level of expense incurred until now my trip would have come to a slightly premature end!

And for what they are, these lodgings are very nice. Hardly top grade accommodation but they have, with the exception of cooking facilities (which are sporadic), everything necessary to sustain one. Hot water seems to be a given, which seems more wonderful the longer one walks :0)

I awoke this morning at first light (around 08:10) - which is the latest I've woken up since my first days on this walk. Part of the reason was due to the fact that last night, when it became apparent that our only female resident (a Spanish woman I had passed earlier on that day's stage) could snore like an absolute trooper! I picked up a matress, pillow and blanket and trudged off to another part of the building, closed the door and slept very well.

The weather forecast from yesterday had been right. The day began cloudy but dry and the promise of sunshine seemed realistic. The way out of town was clearly marked. I'd had a glass of wine in the bar last night and the barman is also a part of the local hospitalero network. He gave us an explanation of today's route which, it had been suggested, would follow the old main road. Hmm. First they bung in a huge great motorway along the coast, cutting through old roads and pathways at will. Secondly they then have to rush to redirect all the lost pilgrims (yes, there are!) who find their way so rudely interrupted by road building. It would seem that today's stage was one of these.

I set out following the signs and was soon directed off the road and up a steep path through the woods. A little while later I could see that we were walking on some form of provisional camino. Gone were the familiar ceramic shells fixed clearly to stone bollards - which have marked our way through Asturias thus far. Now I was following hastily sprayed yellow arrows placed absolutely minimally along the route.

I headed into a forest of eucalyptus and then began climbing. I saw an old 'proper' waymarker on the path pointing to my left, but with a yellow arrow sprayed pointing directly ahead. The path to the left looked overgrown and abandoned. I was now following a track which was created by the older installation of the gas main. All through France and Spain one can see the major pipelines indicated by yellow or orange coloured metal posts. I was now following just such a route. As a BIG hill grew before me I realised with a slightly sinking feeling that my route was now about to take me over this huge ascent. Okay - so "huge" can be qualified. It was hardly a mountain but it was the steepest and longest ascent I've seen since those few days in the Pyrénées. My goodness but it felt hard work going up - not helped by the fact that because I'm particularly keen to cook my own food now and again I've been carrying around a kilo of rice and assorted foodstuffs (tuna, tomato, sweetcorn) for the past two days!

The view from the top was impressive - all of the coast laid out before me. I could see clearly how the old routes of the camino have been wiped out by all the road building along the coast. Obviously it's important that all these vehicles traveling at high speed can arrive half an hour sooner. Much preferable to maintaining the natural peace and beauty of an area.

The climb was followed by a brief section of level terrain after which the road descended very steeply for close to 2km. It made it very hard work already - straight up and then straight down. As if yesterday hadn't been fairly taxing!

At some point on the way down, as I saw the road switch back in order to maintain the descent I found I became really quite negative about my current camino experience. Gone was the sense of walking through history and sharing in a common experience. I felt we were being herded like sheep now - in the quickest and most expedient manner to the next town, with no real consideration of the camino itself or of what it could offer. Funnily enough I was to find identical sentiments echoed by Emilio, one of the guys from last night who recently pitched up here at the albergue. There are views of the coast on this stage, and sometimes some beautiful glimpses, but one also sees the large, ugly encroachments of factories, retail parks and ill considered urban expansion.

The descent took me back onto the tarmac of a main road. Okay, so not a terribly busy main road but a main road all the same. The ruta del Norte has seen a huge amount of tarmac. Compared with the camino in France this is already massively over-developed. I'd even go so far as to say that since Santillana (and while there have been some beautiful sights en route) the entire coastal route - the Camino del Norte - has basically been lost forever under the surfeit of roadbuilding courtesy of extensive European funding.

After a while some yellow markers appeared and I exited the road and began descending towards the coast. This path appeared to be an established track down to a small secluded beach. A tricky descent among large stones, leaves and wet clay. Just before the beach the path headed left over a stream and then back up the other side of the valley. A long detour that appeared to serve no purpose other than to temporarily redirect the pilgrim away from the road.

Again I felt a sense of a great loss. These paths just didn't feel established or well chosen. For those that will be walking this camino in the years to come, I can only think how much further impoverished might be the experience, as the camino is constantly readjusted to the needs of the road construction lobbies.

Once I began climbing the away from the beach the sun came out. I looked up between the eucalyptus to see blue sky :0) I took off my windproof jacket which had been necessary against a very chilly wind in the morning. Winter must be on its way. Now that I was walking in the sunshine things were at least more enjoyable.

I climbed back out onto the road and headed off following the arrows. Cows at pasture stared contentedly from their paddocks. Farm tracks led off on either side to neat, silent houses. In the distance the rocks and the surf were visible.

I found one further diversion away from the road and took it - aware that last night's talk had mentioned two diversions. Surely I couldn't be in Cadavedo already? I looked at the time - 13:00 hrs. 22km? Really? No wonder the soles of my boots are almost worn away!

I passed a supermarket still unsure of my exact whereabouts but bought some bread, two satsumas and some biscuits. The till receipt said "Supermarket Cadavedo" so that confirmed it - not far to go now.
Indeed there wasn't. I asked a couple I saw sitting outside a bar and they pointed: "there" they said. I was 75 metres from the albergue.

I found the door closed but unlocked so let myself in, signed the book as requested, and showered. Nice. This is another free albergue and I was able to wash my clothes (I'm hoping they dry before this evening's predicted rain) and get comfortable early in the afternoon. It's a good thing sometimes to arrive early and be able to rest the body - particularly the feet. These have been two difficult stages for different reasons. I know the camino del Norte is supposed to be more challenging, but I obviously need to look after myself in order to continue walking comfortably.

About an hour or so after I arrived two of the guys from last night turned up. After we got chatting (no real opportunity yesterday) we seem agreed on trying to find a way to cook a shared meal tonight rather than keep paying in the restuarants. If not well, I'll have to dine out again but it will mean a further day with the extra weight of the food - which I was supposed to be eating, not carrying! And as it happened the hospitalero turned up bringing firewood! There was an old wood-fired stove in one corner and which still worked. Problems solved :0) After he stamped the credentials and left we got busy lighting the stove. We soon had rice, eggs, tuna cooking on the hotplates. Nice :0)

Much later in the evening, when we felt it most unlikely that any further pilgrims might arrive we heard a knock on the door to find two young Spaniards who had had a very long and tiring day in the rain. I think they were pleased to find some life in the albergue and a few smiling faces :0)

I've been told that the weather tomorrow midday onwards is forecast to be VERY heavy rain. Hmm... There are three further free albergues west of here. I'll see how it goes tomorrow and which one I'll make it to. I'll be leaving Asturias in about three days. From here it's Galicia and Santiago!

14/10/12: Soto de Luiña

Yesterday evening ended well, despite the efforts of the local wifi network to thwart my blogging!

Just as I sat down to eat (I call the recipe "tuna surprise" - mostly because it always is) Roland turned up. I invited him to join us. Later that evening the three of us went out to drink cider. After all, this is a centre for cider production, so we felt we were simply indulging in a little cultural tourism :0)

The cider they make here is refreshing but of a low alchohol content, thus a couple of bottles went down well and we strolled back to the albergue. It certainly helped me to relax at the end of the day :0)

One further thing I would add about Avilés is to say that it is a fascinating town. Despite giving the appearance, should one drive into or through it, of being a thoroughly uninteresting modern town, the few streets that comprise the historic centre more than make up for the lack of glamour. What a huge number of fascinating old buildings, cobbled arcades and old churches there are!

Anyway, next morning I awoke at a usual sort of time - around 06:30 - and started repacking the rucksack. I left with Joost just after 08:00, it still quite dark now that the evenings appear to be lengthening.

Today began cloudy and the weather deteriorated quickly. Waterproofs on just as we began the climb out of town and they stayed on all day.

The details of today's stage were less than completely clear. The more recent guidebooks had put the stage at almost 41km - too much to consider allowing for all the ascents and descents today. On the other hand the new map outside the albergue in Avilés had it at 32km - much more manageable. My feeling was that, in comparing the two maps, several of the stages between villages had been shortened. I think many pilgrims found 41km too far.

So, we headed up and out. It wasn't a particularly ardouos climb - in fact none of them were, although climbing and descending take their toll. The rain was coming down steadily now and we just walked without talking, focusing on secure footing in the more difficult conditions.

Just before midday we pitched up in Santiago del Monte where we found a bar. While we were having coffee the heavens opened and we were glad to be sitting indoors, despite the fact that the waterproofs work absolutely fine.

We set off again with 16km already behind us, with 16 or possibly more kilometres still ahead. There were brief pauses in the rain and a few glimpses of sunshine between the clouds but generally today was wet and dreary. There was even a wind that whipped up at times and chilled things somewhat.

When we arrived in the next village, Joost - not unexpectedly - decided that it was both lunchtime and far enough for him. I carried on alone, certain that I would have several hours' more walk ahead of me. I put some music on my little player and headed onward.

The afternoon grew progressively wetter. I was walking solo for the first time in many days and felt a mixture of different things. It's good to have personal time on the camino - the experience does rather lend itself to reflection. I thought about the past days and the weeks, and the more than one thousand kilometres I've already walked. It is true to say that a part of me wanted to return to things known - my own bed, familiar surroundings, some personal space. While there is enormous camaraderie and kindness amongst one's fellow travellers, one is also constantly in contact with others, in shared spaces. I've spent almost six weeks in such company and part of me felt it had had enough. Still, one goes on. I'm simply recording some of what goes on while I'm walking. There's no doubt in my mind that I'll make it to Santiago!

The rest of the afternoon was - to use a word - "challenging". And not necessarily in the best way. It was cold and miserable. In a funny way I didn't mind. As I've said elsewhere on this blog, I've had SO much great wather since I left and this was only the first time I could say it has really rained properly. Walking in wet weather gear (at least, the gear I've bought - on a budget) is a new experience. With continued exertion the gear tends to hold perspiration inside, thus while it is most certainly keeping the rain out! continued wear induces a certain amount of moisture inside. The thing is to keep walking and not let it cool down.

I was making good progress but suddenly and for no apparent reason the markings disappeared. I asked and was shown the way (this happens a lot in Spain) but still no arrows or waymarkers. The reason soon became clear. As I climbed a steep path, the new motorway overpass very mcuh in sight, I discovered that I was pitched out directly onto the exit ramp! The new stretch of motorway has just been opened and has cut directly into the camino. I'm now forced to walk in the rain on a hard shoulder (this is an exit ramp, not the motorway itself). I arrive at a roundabout and suddenly out of nowhere some yellow markers appear. I followe them and realise that this is a very hasty marking job that attempts to restore the pilgrim to some part of the camino. So much for the thousand years of history and the signs that everywhere proclaim the camino's status as part of "a European heritage" - people need to arrive sooner! So forget history, peace, walking - let's build yet more roads!!

The one upside to all of this unexpected diversion was that when I finally climbed down through the woods on an ancient cobbled path (always difficult in the rain, with wet leaves and clay), wondering just how much further I would have to walk, I was delighted to see the sign for my destination just ahead of me. The time taken would seem to suggest that this stage was indeed somewhere in the region of 32km, give a bit. I found the albergue quickly and was pleased to discover that it appears to be free! Lots of hot water in the showers, and blankets etc. but no kitchen, so the food I've carried all day will have to be cooked later (nothing like adding more kilos! A bag of rice, some tuna, a tin of sweetcorn etc... oh what fun I have!)

Right then - that's me up to date. I've no idea where I'm going tomorrow apart from further West. The guide I bought doesn't cover the coastal route this far, so I'll just walk until I've had enough and then find somewhere to stop. There's something fun about the camino in such a spirit - no constant fretting over maps and distances, just following the arrows :0)

I'm off to digest the "pilgrim special" in the restaurant just as soon as it opens. A couple of younger Spanish lads in the albergue - that's about all one sees on this route really. I don't mind but they do have an annoying habit of talking on their mobiles after lights out. Oh well... it's the camino ;0)

13/10/12: Avilés

A nice evening out in Gijón last night - all the bars and restaurants gradually filling up with old and young alike, and plenty of takers still for the outdoor seating. Judging by the flora seen along the camino Asturias has a very mild winter climate.

Anyway, we did the tourist thing and wandered around the town, eventually settling on another bar offering a "pilgrim special". I think the meal actually consisted more of the included wine than it did of the side dishes of chorizo, fried potatoes and sundry other foodstuffs. Still, it did the job ;0)

We left this morning at another lesiurely 08:00-something and wandered out past the marina (the indicated camino) and found a cafe able to serve a form of breakfast. After that it was a very pleasant walk out past the river and through a park.

At the edge of the city we came immediately to the industrial outlands. Oh my! Mile after mile after mile of increasingly ugly buildings, culminating i


Tell you what. I just wrote my entire blog for today when suddenly the connection failed and I was presented with a blank page. I find I'm currently in no mood to be bothered to rewrite the rest of my day. Suffice to say I'm here in Avilès, it's sunny and warm and the albergue is fine. Tomorrow is a hard stage - 32km but a lot of ascent and descent. I expect to part company with Joost tomorrow, who wants a less taxing day. With almost no other pilgrims visible on these stages I imagine I'll complete my journey to Santiago alone, although the camino is always full of surprises.

Right, that's it from me for now. Time to go and search for tonight's food.

12/10/12: Gijón

The night in the small but appointed hotel in Villaviciosa was a night of deep rest. Nice.

There was no need to rush in the morning (there never is!). Breakfast had been delivered the previous evening and the coffee in the thermos was still hot. A minimal breakfast really - and most of which we carried with us for the walk, especially considering that all shops were closed today because of the holiday. It helps to have something to snack on while walking.

We left after 08:00 but the skies were still a little dark - the sun is rising noticeably later each day. We headed out of town past the old church (yup - another old church ;0)) of Santa Maria, looking lovely by floodlight. The day was breaking and we headed across a small park and out of town. The rain was threatening, so we stopped to don the waterproofs. Once again it made the walking easier because there remained no need to keep watching the skies.

We walked for an hour or more, expecting the 400 metre climb to appear. Eventually it did and we set off under the now heavy rain on a fairly steep ascent. Walking on an ancient trail under chestnut and walnut trees, the path was slippery with fallen leaves and the polished rocks. The climb went directly up without pause for a couple of kilometres, all of it very well marked (as is all of the camino thus far in Asturias).

We crested the hill around three and a half hours after leaving the hotel, very glad that we had walked the extra kilometres the previous day to leave us close to the ascents.

Once down the other side we were in the village of Peón where a bar appeared. A large coffee later, among the dozens of ramblers using the location as the starting point for a local walk, and we set out for the second and smaller climb of the day. The weather had improved so we stowed the waterproofs. Much better. I have discovered something that will be of no surprise to any experienced walker, namely that a simple poncho and over-trousers will keep in almost as much moisture as they keep out! The problem with this is that after an hour or more of exertion, one begins to feel chilled by the condensing vapour inside the clothing. Anyway, having been slightly chilled by the initial climb, the weather now allowed me to walk minus the waterproofs. Within fifteen minutes it was as if it had never rained!

We passsed through the village of El Curbiello at the top of the second climb and headed down towards Gijón - which was now visible. I find it always feels much easier to walk towards a visible destination than to have to walk on not knowing if there remain thirty minutes or two hours of walking.

We passed a surprisingly large and impressive building on the outskirst of Gijón - the Cuidad Laboral. This is an enormous complex built by Franco in a vaguely neo-classical style and contains a church and viewing tower. In its day it was an 'education centre' for the children of miners and other low paid workers.

After another coffee break we headed into the city centre. We passed by the beach and into the old city centre. While we knew that the only albergue accredited to Gijón is actually 4km before the city, in a campsite, we felt that after yesterday's result with the hotel we might find similar accommodation here. We weren't wrong. A nice downmarket hostal near the beach cost us 12 euros each. Two basic beds, a creaky armoire and a wonky mirror over a cracked washbasin had exactly the right air of traveling salesmen. Well - a pilgrim isn't much different I guess ;0)

So, after the necessaries (and the landlady kindly agreeing to put our gear in the washing machine) we headed out into the city, armed with tourist map, to peek at the numerous landmarks. Gijón is an impressive city that must have been here a long time. Next to the old Roman baths on the harbourside is a statue of Octavius Augustus. I haven't looked up the history of this place but perhaps Gijón was within his domain. Either way, we photographed our fair share of 16th and 17th century palaces, churches and chapels ;0) Of particular interest was the interior of the church of San Pedro right on the harbour front. The interior decoration contains mosaic frecoes (can such things exist?) in a modern style that recall the ancient Roman mosaics of early Christian churches. I wanted to add some details here such as names of the artists etc. but in using the free wifi in one of the (many) bars here, it's now time to eat and I have no further inclination to spend time looking stuff up on the internet. Anyway, once again it was a good decision to press on to the major town/city and enjoy a little Spanish life ;0)

Tomorrow Aviles. Right now it's time to eat! :0)

11/10/12: Villaviciosa

The albergue at San Esteban was basic yet functional. The main concern was nourishment or lack of, and to that end we had been assured that breakfast would be available at Berbes, just 3km from the albergue. I proposed to Joost that we might leave early in order to take breakfast at an early opportunity and he agreed, so at 07:30, with it still pitch black we set off, with my headlamp glowing, on the road to Berbes.

I could see if not feel the rain spitting by the light of the lamp and within 20 minutes or so it was sufficiently strong that we stopped to put on the rain gear.

We arrived in Berbes in daylight to find the bar closed! Oh well, on to the next port of call. The camino passes close to the coast and we wandered among sandy, deserted beaches in the silvery light - the rain falling steadily but not very hard. It was peaceful and scenic.

The next location that the guide suggested migh offer refreshment was also closed, so on we walked. The weather was damp but not cold, and despite the drizzle the camino was beautiful. After several further abortive attempts to find an open bar (this part of the coast seems very seasonal judging by the number of hotels and chalets) we pressed on to the next major town of Colunga. We were in luck (well, we certainly should have been - it was now almost midday!). On our way out of town we bought a couple of large chocolate biscuits of a type typical here in Spain. I've no idea what they'd be called in English but since today's stage included no further towns or villages with shops or bars we had to make best we could for nourishment during the day.

After coffee in a local bar we set out again, and now the sun came out. Nice :0) The path from Colugna headed out into the hills on a quiet surfaced road with virtually no traffic. The walking was pleasant. We had left early and made good time, and shortly after midday were more than halfway through our 32km stage.

The road began to climb - up among green pasture that held cows with bells, and views of distant pine forest. Joost said it could have been Bavaria in springtime. I have to take his word for it ;0)

We climbed higher and as we climbed the weather changed once more. Dark clouds appeared. It should be no surprise at all to see the rain- after all, this is much more the weather we are told to expect along the northern coast in October. The climb took us past sleepy, traditional hamlets of old farms with their elaborate granaries in stone stilts. We arrived at the tiny village of Pernús with its old, traditional church where we saw a german woman resting in the porch. We had bumped into her yesterday on the seafront at Ribadesella. After a brief chat we pushed on. Now we had reached the highest point of the path at a place called Priesca. Here awaited the most wonderful surprise. The guides always tend to list churches, monasteries and suchlike. We were aware that there was yet another church on top of this hill, but what we weren't aware of (until we arrived) was the the church of San Salvador was a pre-Romanesque church built in 959 and which (according to the plaque) retained portions of the original wall painting!!

Of course it was closed BUT just as I said to Joost how much I'd really like to visit this one particular church, a woman popped out of her front door nearby and I asked her if she knew anything about the opening times. Her reply was "I'm just coming" and less than a minute later we followed her towards the church as she extracted her key :0)

Oh my - this was truly something to behold. I took lots of photos (allowed) and the painting was indeed visible. It was a small and simple design but I was so impressed to find an intact church more than 1000 years old in its original state. We donated a few euros - which she gratefully told us would help pay for the flowers.

We felt it was time for the chocolate biscuits so we sat on a bench nearby and began our 'lunch' just as the heavens opened. Now it really was raining. No problem though - we finished eating under the shelter of the large tree and donned our waterproofs before setting out again.

The path descended quite steeply now, and the going was difficult in the wet. What would otherwise have been simply an ancient, scenic stone path now became a slippery source of potential injury. We picked our way downhill using the walking poles. Once on the flat we continued through apple orchards and pasture. Our destination lay beyond the suggested resting point of Sobrayes and its communal albergue. Joost had information that suggested there were albergues available in Villaviciosa. And our reason for making the extra distance relates directly to tomorrow's stage. Tomorrow we are heading to Gijón. The path out of Gijón heads almost directly up to 400 metres, followed by a steep descent and a further ascent of 200 metres. Rather than stop six kilometres short of the climb in Sobrayes, and thus have to begin climbing after more than an hour's walking, the idea was to get closer to the hills while leaving ourselves a more manageable 26km tomorrow.

The path wound onward and by now my feet were getting tired. This was the third long day in a row and I could feel it. The rain had dropped to intermittent showers, so I was walking in full rain gear mostly because it meant I was free from having to keep trying to decide whether to put it on or take it off. Better to simply leave it on and keep walking. I was glad I did because there were wet squalls about.

We rolled into Villaviciosa around 16:00 and I asked about for the location of the Youth Hostel, only to be told that there wasn't one and that furthermore there were no albergues of any kind in town!

Fortunately we had noted some details stuck to a tree some 10km back, which advertised a hotel in town offering a special rate for pilgrims. We turned a couple of corners on our way to the centre of town and there was the Hotel Carlos I waiting for us.

30 euro for a twin room with shower. Yes please! Much preferable to another night in a common dorm with all that entails. The hotel is really rather splendid.

We went out to eat early, aware that no restaurant in Spain is open before 20:00 hrs. We settled on what looked like a nice traditional bar offering pinchos and ordered a bottle of wine and some assorted plates.

A very nice evening in what was clearly a local establishment, and very good value for money.

Tomorrow is a holiday throughout Spain, although it won't affect our accommodation or dining. Weather forecast isn't too good from now until Sunday, but from Monday things will be brightening up again. All in all it's been good to get the distances done but I would suggest that this part of the camino is quite challenging. There are long stretches of beautiful countryside and coast but not much else. It requires long hours to cover it all and arrive in a suitable town.

One further thing to note: I am now just past the point where the camino del Norte descends onto the camino Primitivo and its journey over the mountains of Asturias. I am now 'committed' to the northern coastal route. This was a choice. I had spoken at some length to Toni about his experiences a couple of years back when walking the primitivo. It is beautiful but very, very isolated in stretches. One can walk all day and pass nothign more than a few ruins and a lot of nature. Accommodation can be scarce, and the walking is hard. If the weather turns against you it can be very miserable and tough going. So I'm going to follow the northern coast until we turn south at Ribaduero.

Right, I think that's everything. I think we're going to repeat the private accommodation idea tomorrow, so I hope to have further updates. The ONLY available albergue at Gijón is the wooden huts at a campsite some 4km before the city. While it's been good to take advantage of the albergues and the discounted rates, one ends up spending every evening in the company of the same few fellow pilgrims. It's nice to be in a larger town or city and be able to get out into the streets and enjoy the ambience.

10/10/12: San Esteban (de Leces)

The albergue in Póo was delightful. Joost and I were the only residents and not only did that make things peaceful and calm, it also allowed us to wander up a short lane into the local bar which Joost had noticed was a "Sidreria" - which means cider. A bottle of 70cl - equivalent to a wine bottle cost 2,30 euros. I've no real experience with cider but it seemed perfectly quaffable.

Breakfast had been mentioned the previous evening: 08:00, positively luxurious. As it turned out there was no breakfast prepared and Ivan, the hospitalero, was nowhere to be seen. We headed back to the bar instead and found more coffee and something to eat.

The day was slightly overcast but warm - already in the 20s by the time we began walking. Today's stage was going to be longer - 32km in fact.

The camino passed quickly towards the beach and we walked alongside the various bays and beaches, the lack of direct sun allowing us to walk in cooler temperatures today.

We passed the old monastery of San Salvador and on past more beaches and cliffs. We then approached another noted church - that of Nuestra Senora de Los Dolores - which sat proudly on its coastal promontory looking for all the world as if it belonged in some central American colony. This custom begun by the early Spanish and Portuguese merchants of introducing the archtectural styles of the Spanish colonies has spread all along this coast and applies to the houses, churches, chapels and farms. One sees many foreign species of plants such as palm trees, cacti and bougainvillea all growing happily in this temperate climate.

We were more than a third of the way through our day and stopped in a small bar for a coffee.

More beaches passed and still the weather remained mild and cooler than previous afternoons. The many farms and old houses - many restored to their former glories - I found fascinating; large estates with grand colonial style houses and mature trees.

The walking was almost completely flat with just a few slight gradients. The eucalyptus have invaded everywhere and although they give good shade, their quick growth and appetite for water are having a disastrous effect on local ecosystems.

The early afternoon hours were the more challenging. With 24km under our belts and still no sight of our next destination - Ribadesellas - these often seem the hardest walking. We arrived in Ribadesellas shortly after 14:00 and headed straight for the nearest restaurant. I had a snack, despite being aware that the chosen albergue for tonight offered no meals and had no kitchen. There was a bar close by (1.5km) but I chose to simply allow the evening to unfold rather than try to plan everything to the smallest detail.

After a rest in Ribadesellas we set out for the final 5km with renewed vigour. The path took us over the bridge and out along the promenade with its peculiar collection of "chalets" - which is the name that has been given to what are actually rather grand, architect designed seaside houses.

It began to spit with rain but nothing that would require waterproofs. Only a couple of kilometres to go and the path turned uphill. Just as some sort of final test for the day we began a kilometre of steep ascent into the hamlet of San Esteban as the rain started to fall more heavily.

We arrived at our destination under a light drizzle. The hospitalero received us warmly and we were soon happily installed and showered as we saw the rain get heavier. This is the first real rain I've seen on the camino.

Having asked about food I was informed that the nearest bar was now 3km away but that the bus stop directly outside would deliver us quickly in time for the evening meal, with a convenient return journey. As it turned out that option became unnecessary. Despite my desire to consume as many calories as I possibly can each day (and particularly during long stages), we were by now six in this somewhat remote location and offers to share food came quickly. So, a most satisfying impromptu feast was organised and we dined on bread, salami, cheese, grapes, pears, yoghurt and tea - finished off with chocolate biscuits! The spirit of the meal more than made up for any possible lack of presentation :0)

Tomorrow is another long stage, with an equivalent (or possibly greater) distance the day after. Planning is now important. Albergues are widely spaced in this part of Asturias. The aim is to avoid putting in a short day of only 20km or less to then find that the next albergue is now 40km away. So one is rather bound by availability, even with a desire to be flexible or to allow things to unfold more organically. It's stopped raining by now and tomorrow looks like being another nice day - but that's tomorrow.

Night all.