End of journey

Yup, it's nearly all over.

I spent the 29th resting in Muxía, at the really rather fun Albergue Dolphin - a Hungarian run Albergue that was nicely relaxed and informal, allowing me as they did to check in at around 09:30 :0)

There were a few fellow pilgrims there, also resting, and opportunities to swap stories and 'compare notes' over the various routes and options taken during the walking.

Overall though I've finished the walking and now have a few days R&R as we make our way slowly back to France.

The morning of the 30th I caught the early bus to Santiago (losing one of my water bottles in the luggage hold of the bus! Must go up to the bus station and see if they have a lost property office) and arrived in Santiago around 09:00. After wandering the streets for a couple of hours I went and checked into the Parador, right next to the cathedral. Nice :0) I could tell that this was going to be an arduous couple of days ;0)

Apart from the utter bliss of sleeping completely free of all those little things one tries to learn to ignore while in dormitories (there's no need for me to itemise them I'm sure), my time has been spent catching up with my good friends while revisiting parts of the cathedral and generally taking things easy. In fact these few days in luxury are proving to be valuable in allowing me to fully rest. While I have felt and still feel so very fit throughout my days on the camino, I also seem to have discovered some deeper level of tiredness (one might call it exhaustion) that has manifested itself in a desire to snooze in the afternoons - most unlike me!

Tomorrow (1st Nov) we're stopping in Santillana at another Parador :0) After that it's the train home from Pau and I should be back indoors chez moi some time on Friday - two months to the day since I left.

I will take time to reflect on the whole experience. In some respects one is rather too bound up in the walking and its associated activities to form any broader vision of the journey, but I know that with the huge number of photos I've taken and my blog as a form of diary, I will sort through the days and weeks and enjoy the many memories of the people and places I've seen.

And at this point it feels like the right time to stop posting. I don't think there's any more needs to be said. It only remains for me to give thanks to all the lovely people I've met since I left home, every one of whom has shown nothing but kindness, support and generosity. I'm looking forward to sharing with the rest of you - my friends - once I get back to the Tarn :0)

28/10/12: Muxía

The journey wouldn't really feel complete without this final extra leg of the journey up the coast to Muxía.

With the clocks adjusted over the weekend I found myself leaving in daylight around 08:00 - much better :0)

The route to Muxía took me back out of Fisterra the way I'd come in, before turning up a hill and out into the countryside. The sun was rising into a clear blue, cloudless sky :0)

I passed small groups of buildings and the occasional chapel. One can't really call these villages although they do have names, albeit those names are hardly ever shown in any form - which can make it difficult keeping track of progress if one doesn't have a map or guidebook. Anyway, I soon found myself out in the relative wilderness of this part of northeastern Galicia, following the asphalt towards my destination.

The camino wound its way up and down hills - in many respects it felt like one of the more challenging sections I've walked in many weeks. I suspect a large part of the 'difficulty' lay in the fact that in knowing this was my final day of walking, my mind and body had begun unwind from the sustained intensity of getting up every day knowing one has to carry a rucksack for 30km. I had mixed feelings about ending my walk. Of course I am looking forward greatly to reprising those things I left behind me almost two months ago, and the chance to see friends and familiar faces once more. But at the same time there ws this new feeling of now being so fit for walking and with an established ability to survive well from what I carry on my back, and thus there seemed so many places still to walk to, still to be seen. Maybe another time?

The sun was warm on my skin but a fresh breeze kept the temperatures down. The camino took me out over two ranges of hills - it felt as if it were all uphill! The views were beautiful everywhere, with glimpses to my left of small deserted beaches, the Atlantic lapping gently on golden sand, the sky clear and blue. Ahead and to my right were views out across the forested hills. For once there were pine and other native species, not yet completely overtaken by the eucalyptus.

I passed quite a number of pilgrims walking in the opposite direction. Many choose to take the bus from Santiago and begin this part of the walk in Muxía, stopping in Fisterra before walking back down to Santiago. I was obviously walking the reverse.

After what had begun to seem like far too long (again, my mindset was different today) and not having any sight of a town of village, the path turned left in the woods and suddenly there before me was the sea and a descent down to the main road. 2km left!

I wandered into the small, pretty coastal village of Muxía shortly after 13:00 and stopped in front of the municipal albergue. This was it - the end of the journey! The hospitalero was a happy, smiling and helpful Spanish girl and she offered me another certificate - this one to say that I'd completed the "Ruta Jacobeo". I rather like this one, it again feels somewhat more personal than the compostela even though I can imagine that these are also issued in their thousands.

By late afternoon the albergue was full, many of the pilgrims I'd seen either yesterday or a few days before. There were hellos and a few hugs, and many people seemed to be catching up on earlier acquaintances.

The only thing I hadn't properly planned for was the fact that today was Sunday. There were no shops open and thus no possibility of adding to the food I was carrying with me (spaghetti, garlic, olive oil). In the end I went out to the restaurant with four others who were kind enough to invite me along. We had an enjoyable evening. Despite it being full moon out on a clear night we were back in the albergue by 22:00 - which is usual lockup time for the municipal albergues. This does have the advantage of preventing 'youths' returning from late night binges and waking everybody up!

Tomorrow is a rest day here before I return to Santiago to stay with my dear friends :0)

27/10/12: Fisterra

I've now seen the sun go down at the end of the world :0)

Let me first rewind a little: I left the albergue in Olveiroa around 09:00. I had quickly realised that one of the advantages of private albergues is that there's none of this chucking out time first thing in the morning. On top of this the owners couldn't have been nicer or more helpful - and all of this for 12 euros! A part of what made my stay enjoyable was going into the kitchen to prepare my dinner and finding a very friendly couple of pilgrims in there - Felipe (Brazilian) and his very lovely German girlfriend - whose name I've forgotten (shame on me). We had a laugh and a chat, which I always enjoy after a day's walking alone.

I packed at a leisurely pace and set off under threatening clouds. I soon put on my waterproofs and it turned out not to be a moment too soon. Nothing too heavy and certainly nothing like the approach to Monte de Gozo the other day, but persistent nonetheless. The cloud was moving quickly so the morning was bursts of rain and dark skies followed by periods of sunshine.

The camino itself was spectacular - that's the word I'd give it. Some lovely changes of scenery, starting with climbing onto the moors and walking west past distant mountains and pine forests. I walked among eucalyptus, which really does seem to have invaded the entire northern coast. The sun came out and I saw rainbows. And then, with no prelude, the sea appeared in the distance. I was getting close. There was a small sign beside the camino directing us to a local point of interest. This turned out to be the Cruceiro do Armada, which has nothing to do with Drake (I later found out) but is simply a nomenclature that reflects the fact that this is the point from which one first sights Cabo Fisterra.

I was really enjoying this day's walk. I agreed with Felipe last night when he remarked that since Santiago everybody seems more relaxed. It's true. Even though I wasn't rushing to Santiago but simply making my way, nevertheless the receipt of the compostela does seem to have drawn a line of sorts under things. Now we are walking for the further fun of it :0)

I passed through the port town of Corcubión, nestling in a bay at the bottom of a fairly steep descent. Not too surprisingly our route took us around the bay and back up and out the other side - another fairly steep climb. The rain came down again - for the final time today.

And then a road sign showed 7km to Fisterra. Nearly there :0)

As I rolled into Fisterra I saw numbers of pilgrims swinging left off the camino to walk into town along the beach. I wasn't in the mood to get sand in my boots (or take them off) so I stayed on the paved path that runs beside the beach. Not too long after I was in the centre of town and looking for the municipal albergue. This turned out to be futile, since it is closed until 15 Nov for repairs! Off I went to find the next albergue and struck lucky just a few hundred metres up the road. I say "struck lucky" because a couple of pilgrims who turned up later said they'd just passed two albergues before this one to find them both completely full. There certainly are a lot of pilgrims about on this part of the coast - especially for the time of year.

After showers and necessaries I dashed round a local supermarket and came back to make myself a couple of sandwiches to tide me over until later. I wasn't thinking in any particular terms about the town and its environs beyond the rather obvious idea that I might want to get down to the place where the coast juts into the Atlantic. This turned out to be at the lighthouse, some 3km away.

I had two options - visit now or visit in the morning. Since the weather was now clear and sunny I felt it better to go now than risk missing it all under a blanket of fog or heavy rain. I set off to walk to the lighthouse.

Call me slow if you like - it took me right until the moments I walked out of the town towards this final outcrop of Cape Finisterre (to give it its anglicised name) to realise that the name is virtually unchanged from its Latin roots in the middle ages Finis Terrae: the end of the earth. This is what, at that time, it was thought to be.

It was while making this walk that I felt, to my surprise, a sense of purpose. It was as if, suddenly, here was a completion of this long walk I've undertaken. Not in Santiago but here, at the end of the land, was a place that felt special and that felt as if I could engage in some personal way. This entire train of thought gave a wonderful sense of completion to things and I arrived on the rocky outcrop (alongside dozens of others) around 15 minutes before sunset.

I sat quietly, looking out to sea and reflecting on many things. It felt special to me for no other reason than we were sitting watching the sun go down. I found out earlier tonight (thanks Wikipedia) that this isn't actually the westernmost part of Europe. That honour belongs to a place in Portugal, which juts a further 16km into the Atlantic. Never mind, this information doesn't at all diminish either my sense of achievement or my experience.

There was a cold wind out on the rocks and once the sun was below the horizon we all headed back - the temperature dropped quickly. Once back in the albergue it was time for food and I cooked up the remaining pasta I've been carrying about (along with olive oil, garlic and sundry other foodstuffs) for the past several days - possibly a week.

Tomorrow is Muxia and the end of my walking. I have the enormous pleasure of some luxury in Santiago to look forward to, and a chance to rest my body for a couple of days, but all the hiking and folllowing trails will come to a stop tomorrow. And while I am looking forward to the parts of life I put on hold when I set out almost two months ago, I think I'm also going to miss all of this. We'll see...

26/10/12: Olveiroa

A restful night in the albergue although it rained most of the night so my washing was still damp in the morning. Hmm - that's a new challenge.

Once again the leaving in the dark... I really must ask someone one of these days why they do this? Either way, I set off just after 08:30 just as it was beginning to get light.

The clouds promised rain but in fact it held off. I was quickly into the countryside again - this stage was even more scenic than yesterday's - and quite a lot of ascending. We were shoved onto the asphalt for most of the remainder of the stage but around here all the road users seem so habituated to pilgrims in the road that there doesn't seem any risk.

Once again I caught all of yesterday's residents - not because I try to but because my natural pace is fairly quick. I was enjoying myself. The weather was good, the birds were signing and the scenery was fabulous. It would be worth traveling to Santiago just to walk these three or four stages.

Somewhere along today's route something changed in me. I'm enjoying these last few days of walking but somewhere inside something was telling me that it was time to go home. I couldn't deny it. As I started to accept this idea I realised that while the walk itself, and all the wonderful people I've met, has been and still is fantastic, I've had enough of being woken in the dark by people dressing, and having to listen to the sounds of strangers in the night (NOT the song by Frank Sinatra!).

As I entered Olveiroa, the starting point for the final two legs of this journey, I decided to upgrade my accommodation to a private albergue. For a few extra euros I get wifi, nice private bathrooms, a bar next door (!!) and a small shop. I need to recharge a little before the next two days and have been enjoying a home made sandwich and a glass of tea. I finally got my washing dry from yesterday so am all set for the final parts of the voyage. It's not yet entirely clear when or how I shall get home again in light of changing my mind like this, but that's a small detail considering :0)

25/10/12: Negreira

My way out of Santiago was simple and quiet. Two streets later I was heading out of the town (city?). The way to Fisterra was marked with the same waypoints and signposts as I've been following all along this route.

I was into the countryside and heading uphill. The sun was out and it was time for a hat! I quickly realised two things. I was now completely relaxed about the walking. No more feeling of needing to get anywhere for anything, despite that I'm heading for Fisterra in three days, following the recommended route. The second thing I realised was that I had, at this precise moment, absolutely not a care in the world. That's a nice feeling :0)

The sun kept up its shining and I put on some music. The several pilgrims I've met who had told me that this part of the camino was the very prettiest of the lot certainly seem to have been right thus far. I was walking into wooded hillsides dotted with small villages. The distances are marked on the waypoints so I was able to adjust my pace (strolling) as necessary.

I passed more pilgrims on my way, many of whom were heading back towards Santiago. The camino here is marked in both directions - which it is not for most of its route, making it difficult for those wanting to travel the return legs. I passed through the village of Ponte Maceira with its 14th century stone bridge a splendid example of a Medieval engineering. The river was wide and flat, and a heron stood in the shallows waiting for an unsuspecting fish.

About an hour or so later I rolled into Negreira. There were signs advertising albergues, pensions and hotels hanging from just about every street lamp available. I was heading for the municipal albergue once more. A little way out of town and, at time of arrival, quite empty, but they are cheap and generally of a good standard.

Not so long after I arrived several of the pilgrims I'd passed turned up, including a very fit American lady who, it turns out, had completed the Camino Frances in 24 days. I commented that this seemed like quick going and she casually replied "yeah well, I ran about half of it". I pointed at her considerable rucksack and she said "yup, it's no problem". I should have noticed the "Iron Man" cap. She was a keen triathlete and competitor and for her this was all something of a walk in the park. I told her that I had both of the Iron Man films but she didn't seem all that impressed ;0) She didn't stay - she decided she needed to do more kilometres.

By around 17:30hrs the twenty places in the albergue had all been taken. Among my fellow travelers I got chatting to a very friendly young couple from Vermont who have just made their Santiago stage and are also now heading for the coast. They invited me for supper which was delicious, despite the fact that it was once more spaghetti. I seem to love pasta - I'm still quite happy to eat either pasta or rice. Fortunately us
europeans like to eat earlier. With about nine Italians in residence the stove (electric) got overworked and  packed up after some smoking and a bright electric flash. That was the end of the cooking. It wouldn't have been quite so bad had the young hospitalero not been quite so cheery when she announced to several hungry pilgrims that "oh well, you'll have to eat salad for tonight". Hmm - let's see her walk 33km and then eat a pepper salad.

I'll be in Fisterra in a couple of days, after which it's a day up to Muxia. After that? Well - I'm pretty much kicking my heels until my dear friends arrive, but knowing the camino - and the fact that the best seems to be last - well, I'm still ready for a few more surprises yet :0)

25/10/12: Santiago

Yup - this was at least one of "the days" to mark my walk.

My day began as I went back into the wonderfully welcoming kitchen to find it already half full. While I was drinking tea others from the night before entered and I was offered yoghurt and bread and some apple. A light but impromptu breakfast and I was ready to head out. Fortunately it was now about 08:45 and light enough for walking. I could clearly see the grey clouds so put on my waterproofs just in case.

As I left the complex (for that's what I then realised it was - a large, sprawling holiday camp with an albergue at one end) I very soon realised that we were already right on the outskirts of Santiago and I was quickly beside the early morning traffic entering the city. Not surprisingly there was a wide dedicated sidewalk beside the road which made the walking both safe and easy. The way was so clearly indicated that it would have been utterly impossible to now get lost. I followed large enamelled signs into the historic centre and about an hour later found myself standing beside the enormous church of Santiago.

There was the matter of the compostela to address but since I was beside the church and since I could see a door open (this was not the main entrance) I decided to go in. I was glad I did actually. I had found myself in two minds about this part of the walk. While I'm quite happy to visit these historic places I had told myself that if I found myself among massive crowds and hundreds of restless pilgrims, my motivation to queue for an hour or more for a compostela might be stretched so thin as to make me decide against it. Upon finding the interior of the church calm and uncrowded (during the morning mass) I was happy to wander around this huge space taking in the sights and the architecture. I confess to somewhat ignoring the signs requesting no photography and quickly realised I was not alone. However I had stopped short of photographing directly down the main aisle (impressive amounts of gilt and a very interesting pair of organs) while the priest delivered the mass - which was not a restraint shown by a number of others with their video cameras and iPhones.

I bumped into a French guy I'd last met in the albergue in Bóo de Pielagos. He had been suffering from tendonitis for the previous four days and thus his journey was ending in Santiago. When he showed me his leg, I instantly understood that this was indeed the complaint I had suffered back near Guemes, despite my belief at the time that it wasn't. Mine recovered in a matter of days and has not troubled me since. This poor guy's lower leg was red, swollen and painful.

I visited the reliquary of St James in its elegant silver casket. It was sheer curiosity, nothing more. Fortunately at this hour the crypt was not busy and apart from a few knelt in prayer there was ample space for a good view. And again, while the temptation to photograph was certainly there, I witheld - out of respect for those in prayer (that included a nun). Once again others felt no such need for restraint and were busy flashing away with their cameras. I found a moment for reflection, not merely about how amazingly selfish some people can be (and disrespectful of culture) but about how and why exactly a sliver box that may or may not contain certain remains could continue to command such devotion and attention. Honouring the dead seems to be a universal human trait and yet - who decides which person shall become more honoured or revered than another? It seem to matter only who we say is in the box and not who actually might or might not be. And in this case it's all based on such flimsy accounts.

Satisfied with my visit to the church I headed out via a different door to find the pilgrim office. A short queue only and I was there. A few questions and a form to fill in (mostly ticking boxes - the church have this sewn up tidily) and viola! I've finally been certified! Oh yes - I know many of you believe I should have been certified years ago ;0) As I was waiting for the assistant to complete the formalities I overheard the American chap next to me being told that sorry, but they were unable to issue a compostela. I wasn't around for the outcome of that particular discussion but I can imagine some would be disappointed.

The sun had come out and I wandered over the road to one of the hundreds of gift shops. In this respect the place was Blackpool by another name, so no prizes for guessing which sorts of items were being duplicated in every gift shop around the square. I bought a cardboard tube for the compostela - might as well prevent it getting screwed up in the back of my rucksack, although it'll probably end up languishing in some dark cupboard for the rest of its life. I bumped into Carmen once more, who had just obtained her compostela too. We said what is most likely our final goodbye with vague utterances about meeting up again in either France or Spain. She's fun and friendly, so maybe we will. Either way, that's the camino for you.

Since I have the enormous luxury of returning to Santiago in just over a week's time and thus a chance to indulge in the history and feel of the place in considerably more comfort, I felt I'd get on my way (especially with the sun out after yesterday's downpour) and leave the tourism for my next visit. I had time to pass through the main square in front of the church and some kind lady offered to take my photo in front of the main doors - so I now have the photo to prove it :0) I headed out of the main square to the sound of bagpipes being played under an arch!

24/10/12: Monte de Gozo

The albergue in Arzúa was fine except for once again lacking any form of kitchen equipment beyond the stove. We went into town both to buy supplies and to borrow a saucepan. Third time lucky - after being told by the lady in the bar opposite the albergue that yes, she received such requests all the time, and that yes she did have some saucepans but that no, she was not at all inclined to lend us one. Charming! There's the future of the camino for you right there. Forget any historical or spiritual (or other) reason except for a commercial one.

Anyway, we gathered together whatever utensils and additional pans we had and still managed to eat well. A certain sense of achievement indeed.

This albergue is on the camino Frances and I was in for a bit of a surprise. Whereas previously we would always respect whoever might be still sleeping in the mornings and thus move quietly about with various lamps or torches, the lights went on at 07:00 sharp! Oh well, might as well get up and pack, despite it being an hour and a half before daybreak.

I ended up sitting in a cafe with Carmen, exchanging contact details while waiting for daylight. We saw numerous pilgrims heading out, still caught in this feverish desire to arrive early at the next albergue despite there being greatly reduced numbers now. I knew that at my own rate of progress I would end up passing them all during the day, and I did.

I was two days from Santiago and I decided that rather than split them into two easier days of around 20km each (and a lot of free time to kill) I would get close to Santiago today and leave myself a short stage tomorrow, allowing me to arrive early before (hopefully) the madness began.

The day was overcast and cloudy. I passed the first couple of hours looking at the sky, hoping it wouldn't rain. I finally had to concede the possibility as it turned very dark and I stopped in an underpass to don waterproofs. Shortly afterwards it began to rain gently but steadily.

I was making my usual good progress and I confess that it all felt very relaxed. There was no need to rush. I had been passing pilgrims all morning - it was certainly much busier on this part of the camino but certainly not the hundreds and hundreds per day that one finds in high season. Much repetition of "buen camino" and lots of smiles. It really does help, especially when the weather looks a bit miserable.

The camino was gentle with lots of forest and unpaved sections, which always make a pleasant change from the hundreds of kilometres of asphalt I've been walking on these past few weeks.

A short while later, just as the rain got heavier, the skies opened and an absolute deluge began. A side wind whipped up and it seemed that this somewhat exceptional weather had found the limits of my waterpoofing. Water began to seep into my boots and into the zipped seams of my overtrousers. Nothing drastic but water all the same. The 30 euro poncho appeared to be doing its job :0)

I continued walking as the rain got heavier and couldn't help noticing the bars crowded with waiting pilgrims. Oh well - I was out in it now, no point in stopping.

The rain eased off after about 30 minutes, only to return again later - shortly before I arrived at my chosen destination of Monte de Gozo (Mount of Joy).

This is an albergue with 400 beds, just 6km short of Santiago. I was curious to see just what such a large albergue looked like. I was surprised (pleasantly as it turned out) to discover that they achieved this through three large, purpose built shelters each with its own showers and kitchens. I was glad I'd made the 33km today and a chance to relax now. The one thing the place lacked was clothes washing facilities. I wasn't about to pay to use machines.

By late afternoon there were something like 70 pilgrims in the place - certainly enough to ensure that the kitchen was the busiest place in the building. I spent time there drinking tea and chatting with the various bodies. In my room was an English guy (ex Navy) and I met an English girl in the kitchen. Apart from a fairly brief chat with an English woman in the albergue in Bilbao these were the first English pilgrims I have met in almost eight weeks! One always hears about them but somehow I seemed to have not yet met any. The kitchen inhabitants included an Argentinian (looking like the young Rasputin), two Slovaks, a Latvian, several Spaniards, two Germans, some French people and yours truly. A lively mix and I realised at this moment that by trying to close down the kitchens in other albergues, they are essentially shutting down the heart of the albergue. The kitchen is the preferred place to chat, to share food and information and to generally swap tales of the camino. I spent my entire evening in the kitchen, eventually retiring to bed around 22:30. The hospitalero kindly exercised considerable flexibility in allowing us to all carry on enjoying ourselves and making the most of this very well equipped albergue.

23/10/12: Arzúa

I woke reasonably late - no need to hurry now. Others were packed and leaving but I stayed behind and made some tea and shared the remainder of a sweet cake with David. A sort of impromptu breakfast.

We set off close to 09:00, a beautiful clear day dawning. We walked out of town at a leisurely pace - David nursing a very slight achilles problem. I felt he might appreciate the company.

The scenery was beautiful here. Gentle distant rolling hills, cows grazing, eucalyptus forests (overlooking the fact that this species is busily invading entire ecosystems) and sunshine. It wasn't long before it got very warm and my hat come out. That's something that hasn't happened in a few days now ;0)

What can I say? Today was 22km and basically it was a few hours of gentle walking through the morning. By 13:00 we were on the outskirts of Arzúa where we found Carmen resting by the roadside. After some snacks we reprised our walk together. We headed into town and quickly found the municipal albergue. Arzúa is on the Camino Frances (our final days will be spent here) and was expected to be much busier. Sure enough there are plenty of signs of pilgrims about but I had no problems finding a bed in the municipal algergue - yet another very clean and efficient building but once again that has the kitchen utensils withdrawn. We'll see about that! Have spaghetti will cook!

So folks, I'm two days from Santiago - something like 45km and the sun is out, and I'll be in the company of every sort of able body imaginable - there are allsorts out here on the camino.

Off to buy food shortly - I've been elected chef ;0)

22/10/12: Sobredo Dos Monxes

The camino is saving its best for last! I knew this stage was coming but have said nothing until now.
After a great night in the albergue we were served breakfast. That's something of a rarity around here! Lots of toast and jam - no need to worry about the calories :0) Oh, and lots of coffee too :0)

The days are breaking noticeably later every day now. I waited around until 08:15 and it still looked almost black outside. Since I we were right beside a road it would be very difficult to get lost so I set off. I was soon on my way and the camino soon turned to the right and out across the moors. Daylight was breaking. Low grey clouds threatened rain but none came.

I was feeling in great shape and again I put my music on and strode on. A very light shower started but it wasn't enough to warrent wet weather gear so I stayed with my jacket and hat.

Today's stage was 25k - a short walk compared to yesterday's 38km. Nevertheless this is still a reasonable distance to have to walk.

The weather never really threatened. I walked in a couple of sessions of light drizzle but apart from that it remained dry if cloudy. I walked along beside ancient stone walls - many of them once parts of ancient caminos. There are old established routes all over this land, and the old stone borders and obelisks marking the crossings can still be seen, now built into walls and hedges.

My destination soon appeared - this was the 12th century Trappist monastery at Sobredo - to give the town its full title: Sobredo dos Monxes, which is Galician for Sobredo dos Monjes (Sobredo of the Monks).

Oh wow! This ancient and majestic building looked like something out of a film set. With new cloisters and dormitories added in roughly the 19th or 20th century, the ancient, massive granite monastery stood against the skyline, it's turrets and columns given to grasses and moss - much like the images of Angkor Wat.
I was greeted by a friendly monk and my credencial duly stamped I was shown to the very clean and rustic dormitories. Stone walls and wooden beds - all very clean and comfortable.

I went walkabout and visited the ancient cloisters and the ancient and now abandoned monastery itself, which looks as if it lost it's windows during the civil war. Traces of murals remained, which I photographed but I wasn't about to buy the 6 euro guide detailing the history and contents of the place. I guess there's always the internet ;0)

The monastery closes between 14:30 and 16:30hrs so I had begun to feel a little curious as to whether others would be arriving when they all arrived en masse at 16:32 :0) All the expected there, plus David - a forty-ish German chap who's walking the same way.

A short while later he (David) accompanied me and Carmen into town to shop for supper and we returned with a couple of full bags and I began preparing spaghetti for four. As I put the water on to boil and we began chopping, a young Spanish cyclist suggested that, since he had been planning to cook pasta, we pool our resources. We did so and a short while later (by now around 20:00hrs) we sat down to a very large bowl of spaghetti with a sort of garlic/olive oil dressing - courtesy of yours truly. I seem to have rediscoved an ability to produce edible dishes from minimal ingredients ;0)

We had great fun eating and drinking together. David kindly supplied the wine. A short while later the Spanish students filed in to begin their own preparations. We had finished eating and for some reason Estelle (the Danish woman) began a recital of "Hallelujah" by Jeff Buckley. She had a beautiful voice and the young Spanish group came by to compliment her. We enquired about voices and they volunteered one of their number - Maria - to sing.

Before any singing could be done we went off to witness the final mass of the day. Upstairs in a small side chapel the monks sang in plain, simple tones and gave a short prayer. It's the service after Vespers, I've forgotten the Spanish name. It was a short but beautiful service. I commented later to the priest I'd been chatting to the night before in Miraz (and who was one of the leaders of the young group) that such simplicity and such acts, when freed from political overtones and ideas about competition among religions, seemed so self-explanatory and satisfying that one could hardly take issue either with them or with the idea of religion in general.

And then the singing :0) The young group came over to the table we'd regained since the service and, with some hand clapping reminiscent of Flamenco, proceeded to deliver a very gutsy (and tuneful) version of a well known Spanish song (judging by the gusto with which everyone joined in the chorus!)
So, the camino saves its best for the last. Three days to go and everyone is noticeably more relaxed and having fun. The day's experience and its setting were worth the entire walk alone!

21/10/12: Miraz

Well we made our best of things in Vilalba. The albergue itself was really smart. As a new building opened in 2000, it was well designed and comfortable BUT the kitchen was completely void of utensils, pots and pans and basically anything one might need for cooking. (We've heard from several sources that while these albergues are heavily subsidised, there is still a large degree of overlap between the albergues and the bars and restaurants. It seems that many hospitaleros feel it their duty to enourage pilgrims to spend their money in the bars and restaurants). In any case we went into town and found a supermarket and bought both food and utensils. Shared between three people the cost is still less than dining out :0)

We had a fun evening cooking together and the meal was delicious.

The next morning we all greeted each other before setting out on our separate but identical paths. We were now: Carmen; Inge and Günter and Estelle - a Danish woman we met in the albergue. We would meet again at the end of the day.

The walk was ended up being another that took in two stops. The next albergue from Vilalba is at Baamonde - 22km away. The walk to Baamonde passed quickly (in just under four hours to be exact) which I took to be a sign of the very enjoyable paths on this part of the camino. I walked at my usual steady pace, greatly enjoying what felt like a more relaxed pace of things lately. With the same heavy morning mist as the day before, I was wearing my jacket and a cap and kept my hands in my pockets for warmth.

It not that long after I started that I pitched up in Baamonde. No great changes in elevation, and the mist had finally begun to clear. The walking had been easy. It's still largely all asphalt out here but at least it makes for steady going. Once I arrived I sat outside a bar waiting for Carmen (because she was carrying half of tonight's food!) and enjoyed the warm sun on my skin. It was probably in the low 20s by now - great for walking.

The people running the albergue in Baamonde struck me as rather pushy in terms of trying to encourage me into their albergue, despite my explaining that my stop was most likely only temporary. They insisted that I sat and waited on their premises and further insisted on showing me around the place. It is indeed a very nice place - beautifully appointed and with a lovely garden and terrace. But I didn't stay - indeed we agreed to push on to the next albergue at Miraz.

I'm so very glad we decided to do this. Despite the rather long and boring walk out of Baamonde, eventually crossing the railway line to head into the woods and along a very ancient camino beside the chapel of Santa Maria and its miraculous spring (I wonder how many Santa Marias there are in Spain?), these final 16km did start to drag a little. Mind you, I did pass a significant mark on this leg of the walk. The point where one turns off the road over the railway line marks the 100km to Santiago! Gosh! It feels like I only left home the other day, and here I am about to embark on the final days of my walk. It's 193km to Finisterre from here, and a further 35km to Muxia, plus whatever additional mileage I do before the 5th November.

Just outside of Miraz I bumped into Estelle, who had been resting in the sunshine. We set off together for the final kilometres, passing on our way a group of 13 who, we were about to find out, were booked into the same albergue in Miraz.

The albergue at Miraz was utterly superb - easily the best place I've stayed in on this trip. The reason would seem to be that the premises are run directly by the CSJ and is staffed year round by volunteers - English volunteers. Not only did we receive a warm welcome but the place really was home from home. There was a large and extremely well equipped kitchen (which we made full use of) and later in the evening the wood burning stove was lit - just perfect for keeping the slight chill at bay.

Our other friends from Vilalba turned up, so the 'gang' was reunited. The group we had passed on the road turned out to be a really nice bunch of people. They were Spanish students - looked like first or second year University - walking with three adults for the 100km to Santiago in order to get their compostelas. They had (as I found out at supper) a priest with them - a very nice Spanish guy of 35 who struck me as not at all misty eyed or superstitious about his faith but instead a pragmatist and a humane person. He was very keen on stirring the inner lives of his charges but without preaching or undue ceremony. I felt strongly that when faith manifests itself in such a way it feels extremely hard - churlish even - to take any kind of offence or objection to the church in action. The students themselves were a lovely bunch of people and they were encouraged to speak only in English to us all. They did so very fluently, and I was struck by what genuinely nice, inquisitive, intelligent people they all were.

Everyone was made to feel so comfortable and at ease, and after eating well (with wine, of course) we all retired to bed, the better to be prepared for the following day's adventures.

20/10/12: Vilalba

These posts seem to be getting earlier each day.

Today was only 18km or 20km, depending on whose guide one is reading. Either way, despite taking my time this morning while packing, and then hanging about somewhat while I watched the market set up in the chill morning air, I still arrived here in Vilalba before the albergue had opened. Oh well... no problem. I enjoyed sitting on the mat in the warm sunshine, listening to music while the cleaning was finished.

Today's stage: well, there's not a lot to be said about it in terms of scenery or buildings largely because although the sun is now well and truly out, there was either a very heavy mist indeed or it was a long, low cloud that we all walked through on our way across the hills. Although there was hardly any change of level today I think we're still up reasonably high - high enough to be in low clouds. It made the air very cold, and I walked with an extra layer on and a hat. I kept my hands in my pockets because it had never occurred to me that I might need gloves!

I really enjoyed my walk today. It seems it has taken almost all of the seven weeks since my departure to finally come to this point of simple acceptance of each day and what it brings. And of course today is only half done, but my point is that I finally feel as if I've rid myself of a need to plan or to concern myself with things like times or weather. To just walk out in the morning and watch the scenery unfold brings (it would seem) a great deal of pleasure. Or maybe it's just that the company is good and we're all able to make the most of these very good albergues (that are subsidised by the Galician government). In any case I'm certainly enjoying the camino in Galicia far more than all the mess and disturbance up there in the western stretches of Asturias.

Not really a great deal more to add just now. En route I passed a 15th century chapel, restored in the 18th century and that had a rather bizarre attached graveyard where all the vaults had these elaborate Romanesque style (so the sign told me) crosses on the top. I also walked across a beautiful 15th century stone bridge with double arches. Quite lovely. Of course I've got photos of it all for later :0)

Just now I've made a sandwich from yesterday's cache, and all necessaries are done. I'm now going to enjoy the sunshine and relax for a while before we tackle the supermarket run. One small logistical problem is that while they've provided a kitchen here, with four ring stove, they've neglected to supply and cups, utensils or pans! I'm going to put Carmen on the case since she's much cuter than me ;0) Will let you know how we get on.

Tomorrow is down to Baamonde and is another short stage - even shorter than today's I believe. That's fine - I'm in no rush. The final two days of this route join the Camino Frances, so while there will likely be a lot more pilgrims about, it might make the more relaxed airs of these quieter albergues something to be treasured. I'll find out for sure in a few more days ;0)

Bye for now.

19/10/12: Gontán

Another fine evening in the albergue. Some company (not all of it desired!) and I managed to put together a nutritious meal from what we bought in the supermarket - all for less than 5 euros :0)

I awoke around 07:20 and realised that the few in our room were stirring, so up I got and started packing. I poked my head out of the door and saw the stars. No clouds meant sunshine! Hey :0)

I waited until 08:20 and although not fully light I realised I was kicking my heels. Others had left for the bar and some breakfast but since the camino was just 50 metres away I headed off and up. The path went up an old track under mature chestnuts and it was still quite dark in the shade of the trees.

I came out onto the old road and walked in the growing daylight. This part of the camino is fairly high up (I can't tell you how high, I haven't got one of those fancy watches) and all around were green valleys and small groups of traditional houses and farms dotted about the heavily wooded hillsides. Oh joy - to be free of motorways and noise. And while almost the entirety of today's stage was on asphalt, I was enjoying myself again. I think the frustrations of keep being diverted alongside and around motorways are all a part of the experience. I'm not about to start trying to attach 'meaning' to this experience but I would say that two qualities (are they qualities?) that this walk engenders are patience and acceptance. One can't hurry (not that one should wish to) and one has to accept things as they are. In walking through those less than exciting days in Asturias, it has given new richness to these peaceful mountain views.

I realise that I enjoy walking alone. I greatly enjoy company at the end of the day, so it's nice to chat and share with other pilgrims. Today I lent my walking poles to Paco, who's had to make use of a taxi for the past two days on doctor's orders. Nothing serious apparently, but he accepted the offer. The fact that he's not here already means that he must be able to walk properly again :0)

Anyway, as I say I enjoyed the walk today. I listened to a variety of music including a fair session of Bob Marley, which made me positively bounce along in time to the music.

Within an hour or so I had reached a town called Mondoñedo (a pamphlet I've just been handed by the very helpful hospitalero here tell me that Mondoñedo is one of the Galician Episcopal Sees). The church, with its twin spires, had been visible for some while. I hadn't realised that I would be walking through it. As I entered the town it became clear that there was some form of local fiesta occurring, with designated parking laid out and, further ahead, market stalls preparing for a day's trading. The camino passed through the central square and in front of this massive church. And guess what? Nope - it was open! So of course I had to go in. I was glad I did - another Baroque altarpiece (I have photos) and some impressive architecture. I'm told by the same pamphlet that the church is Romanesque, but since it was built in the 13th century I guess it's quite late. Anyway, that cheered me up even more to actually find a church that is open :0) I did notice the main entrance portal and the impressive painted tympanum, as well as the painted frescoes inside. I now read that the façade underwent major alterations during the baroque period although the Romanesque portal remains, along with the rose window. The frescoes I mentioned (situated either side of the aisle below an impressive pair of Baroque organs) are apparently the work of "the master of Mondoñedo" - carried out in the early 16th century in Spanish-Flemish style. The altarpiece dates from 1769. Okay - enough reading information out of books!

I walked out past the ancient fountain, built in 1548 to ensure that nobody would go thirsty, least of all pilgrims. The way became quite hilly, with a fair bit of ascent and descent today. I took a lot more photos today because some of the scenery on this stage is really beautiful. The early sunlight on the mountain tops, the mist lifting out of the valleys - there was much to appreciate.

I walked on, listening to some early Bowie, thoroughly enjoying the walk, knowing that it wasn't a long stage.

And then - horror of horrors. Yes - the "m" word! Right in front of me - excavators and lorries, and a huge new expanse of four lane blacktop sweeping West, as yet unused. Oh my! They obviously need even more motorway than I'd thought!

There was a diversion in place. A shame I suppose, I was really enjoying this feeling of 'stability' of the camino. But it wasn't a very long diversion. The only downside really is that the altitude meant that I was now inside the low clouds sweeping over a distant crest. While I could see the sun high in the sky, I was walking in the cold and humid air of the clouds.

I arrived in Gontán at 13:00, some 25km from this morning's point of departure, and found a rather lovely modern albergue right beside the road. The hospitalero (Alberto) couldn't have been more helpful, and the place is one of the best I've yet stayed in in Spain or France. Very clean, LOTS of hot water (even for laundry, which is a rarity) and wi-fi included :0) There's a well equipped kitchen and if Carmen and others do arrive here today (there's the fiesta in Mondoñedo, people may decide to stay there) it means another evening of dining in - which is my preferred option at this stage of the journey.

So, all is well in Galicia. I've now got information about the next few days' stages - all of which are in good quality and cheap or 'donativo' albergues. It looks as if there are about 7 more stages to Santiago - so I guess that makes me about a week to go! But no rush, there's still plenty of walking to be done - and I'm not at Finisterra yet ;0)

18/10/12: Lourenzá

My evening in Ribadeo was an enjoyable one. Once again I was stopping in a town or city with a larger population and I went into town on a quick tour. It was nice to be once more among streets full of people going about their business. Unfortunately the church was locked. No surprise there but the local church of Santa Maria del Campo, which abuts the remains of a 13th century Franciscan convent, was unable to show off its recently restored baroque altarpiece. A great shame since from the view afforded through the locked doors it looked well worth a visit.

I set off in the morning at 08:30. This is the time it now gets light enough to be seen by traffic. There had been talk of a morning's rain and I saw others setting off already dressed in wet weather gear but since it wasn't raining and it didn't feel to me as if rain was imminent I took the chance and headed out.

The way out of Ribadeo was easy and clearly marked. I was soon into the countryside and it very quickly became apparent that our descent inland - away from the infernal motorway - was a good thing with regard to the camino experience. I was soon out on the gentle slopes of the hills and although virtually all of the morning's walking was on asphalt (they really are intent on sending us along the now disused old road. Less maintenance, I guess) it was quiet once more and the way was again clearly marked. I realised that this change of route (we're now heading down directly for Santiago) has returned us to some of the more established parts of the camino (the dates on some of the waymarkers suggest that this section of the camino was last rerouted in 1996 and therabouts). I could feel it in my feet -this subtle connection with a more well-trodden path.

The walking took me through undulating pasture interspersed with eucalyptus forest, and cows happily grazing in the silvery-grey light. The weather indeed seemed to be holding steady and with Fela Kuti in my earphones I realised I was once again fully engaged in the camino. How nice to once again feel on one's way :0)

I walked steadily on and the kilometres disappeared. The rain didn't materialise and I walked into Lourenzá around 13:30 - supposedly 28km but I somehow doubt it. Within 15 minutes I was at the albergue and was just about to tackle the matter of the key when a small red hatchback pulled up and out jumped Paco, complete with key! :0)

An hour later I was showered and my clothes were drying on the line. There are benefits to arriving early - it avoids the rush for the faclities (not that it's exactly crowded on this part of the camino).
Pilgrims arrived throughout the afternoon - most of whom I'd seen in the albergue in Ribadeo last night. Among them was Carmen - a rather attractive (strictly as an objective observation) Spanish girl. We went off to the supermarket together and shared the cost of the evening meal. Not only was it nutritious but also very economical. And I had the added bonus of sharing it with such lovely company :0)

So, a fairly reasonable stage tomorrow - just 24km I believe. I'm really enjoying this freedom from a guidebook - all the studying and planning and taking of notes that goes on in the evenings. At the end of the day one still has to go out there and walk it, and there's something of a sense of discovery to not know beforehand just how many ascents there might be or how high they are. There were a few of them today but nothing difficult. It's true to say that after more than six weeks of walking with my rucksack I have achieved a fitness for walking that means I'm free to enjoy the physical challenges without fear or difficulty.

I think that's about it for now. I think we're fairly close to Santiago now - something like 200 odd kilometres to go.

17/10/12: Ribadeo

Well here I am - now in Galicia! I've been through Pais Vasco, Cantabria and Asturias. There's now just Galicia. This has been another day that has turned out differently than I'd planned - but again for the positive :0)

I'll start at the beginning.

I took my time this morning. With nobody else around I wasn't constrained to packing in the dark. I had breakfast (tea and cake) and sorted myself out slowly, ensuring that everything was packed. I've lost a couple of things along the way and it's proved rather frustrating to lose things when I feel I'm being careful. Still, they weren't things that were utterly essential for the walk (excluding one of a pair of walking socks I had drying on the rucksack during one day).

It looked a bit grey and bleak outside, so although it wasn't raining I put my waterproofs on and set out. Today turned out to be all road walking - mile after mile of asphalt.

Not too much to report really. After about an hour the rain let up and I felt confident to take off the waterproofs. It's much better walking without, however good they might be at keeping me dry. I seemed to be back on a more established camino with decent marking. I made good time and just before midday I passed through La Caridá, where there was an albergue. And while I hadn't planned to stop there I did stop to restore the rain gear - there was definitely rain in the air. It was here I did something a bit daft. In putting on the overtrousers I took my camera out and placed it on a chair. I don't usually do this - I usually swap it directly into the new pockets, however this time I didn't. No problem, one would think. I set off again feeling strong and enjoying my day. I found another trail off into the fields and as I was walking I stopped with a dread feeling: I had left my camera behind!

Have you ever seen someone run at a sprint with a 16kg rucksack and poncho? No? Well - that was me ;0)

I managed the 100 metres in near record time but I was puffing a bit by the end. I didn't know one could run in walking boots! I burst into the albergue to be greeted by the cleaner. I looked at the chair and saw it empty. My heart sank. When I mentioned the reason for my distress she pointed calmly to a basket where she'd placed my camera. Out of consideration for anyone who might have been sleeping she hadn't sought to find the owner but simply placed it to one side.

So - let's assume I won't be doing that again!

The rest of my afternoon was quiet and gentle. No dramas and the walking, while it's all on asphalt, wasn't difficult. The rain eased off again and I arrived in my chosen destination of Tol at 14:50. This was a stage of about 27km. Once I found the albergue - again an old school building - I phoned the number on the door to gain entry. It was the local policia in Castropol, so the kind chap at the other end asked me to wait an hour. I went and found a bar.

When the local bobby turned up and opened the door I had had time to collect my thoughts. First was that I needed cooking facilities. I'd forgotten to ask on the phone but not only was I carrying rice and a tin of meatballs, the only source of nourishment in Tol was a four star hotel! Secondly, I had begun to feel that while everyone's camino is a personal experience, and thus I will insist on marching these great distances every day, nevertheless I still felt that I didn't really want to stay in another albergue as the only resident. A part of this experience is meeting other pilgrims, and for sure it makes for more enjoyable evenings :0)

So, upon quickly establishing that there was no kitchen I apologised to the policeman for dragging him out and explained my reasons. He told me that the camino I was on was another variant and that the main route is indeed via the coast and into Ribadeo. Indeed I had had this town marked as a point of interest but found myself on this quiet part of the camino and thus thought no more about it. I enquired about Ribadeo and was surprised to find it was only 7km away. Mind made up I put on my rucksack and thanked the chap again.

As I walked out of the parking area he stopped his patrol car and enquired whether I was walking. The route went via Figueras and on to Ribadeo. I said that yes I was walking. He then asked me if I'd like a lift to Figueras, from where I could ask for the route to Ribadeo. I accepted gladly. After all - not only was this going north and thus slightly farther away from Santiago (I can't accept lifts towards Santiago) but this suddenly felt right. And in fact as I sat and chatted with him en route, he suddenly found his way through Figueras and dropped me right by the bridge that crosses into Ribadeo and Galicia! Nice :0) I did find out one interesting thing though, while I was chatting. I promise not to go keep going on about motorways and the camino - especially now that I am past the far northern coast where the motorway continues to La Coruna - but I found this interesting. He asked me how I found the camino experience and I told him that while there were so many positives, it wasn't universally enjoyed to be walking on so much asphalt and beside and on busy roads. He pointed out of the window and said "I know the route of the original camino - up there in the woods". I expected him to go on to say that of course it had now been made impassable by the new roads. What he told me surprised me. He said that it had been left to grow over and thus, now that it required so much maintenance and clearing the alternatives were here beside the roads. So I took this to mean that another factor forcing us to walk constantly beside busy and noisy roads was simply that there exists no system for maintaining an existing rural network of paths.

I think I'm going to write some letters when I get back! ;0)

Anyway, having been dropped at the bridge I walked the couple of km into the albergue and sure enough - LIFE! :0) More pilgrims :0)

There's a kitchen - so I'll eat well tonight - and I've found a bakery and an internet bar. As I walked into town I saw the two young cyclists who showed up in Cadavedo the other night. They appear to be staying in the albergue too - so there's two people I've already met.

All in all then, I felt this was the camino working its magic again. A day that had threatened to end in silence and without company has now been transformed - due to the kindness of yet another stranger - into another mini adventure.

I'm off to eat now, and to find out where I'm going tomorrow!

16/10/12: Piñera

I'll begin again with a brief recap of last night.

What a fun evening that was! Three pilgrims from the previous albergue showed up: Emilio; Xavi and Mercedes. Our albergue was on the edge of town and the only shop half a kilometre away. I offered to share the food I've been carrying and they agreed, at which point they went out to buy additional supplies. We ended up staying in the albergue and cooking up a fine meal of rice, eggs, tuna in tomato sauce and umm - whatever else was at hand. Oh, and a rather lovely salad appeared too :0)

This, it seems, is how the camino 'works'. One has bad days (I got very frustrated and annoyed by the way the camino was being carved up by new roads) and yet something happens to make it a good day. Last night was just such an event, and I went to sleep feeling very happy with the way the day had turned out.
I rose in daylight. No point in getting up in the dark and then hanging about waiting for the light. We sat around eating a few bits and pieces for breakfast, while I shared my tea bags. I really enjoy this kind of sharing, it makes everything taste a little richer.

We were all heading in the same direction today but I left first. The skies were cloudy and damp and I left with my waterproofs on. I was happy that the proper waymarking had returned (funny how such things can make a difference) and I didn't mind the spitting, intermittent light showers.

My way took me out near the coast - probably very pretty on a clear day - and through many small hamlets dotted around the hills. It was a fairly direct walk almost dead east.

Just before midday I arrived in Almuña where the next albergue was located, but since I'd only been walking for less than four hours and the rain we had been told to expect was thus far showing no signs of appearing, I decided to press on. It was about 25km further to the next albergue in Piñera but I felt it worth a try.

I was enjoying my walk today. The spirit of sharing in the albergue last night I found touching, and today the camino was much more clearly marked, with the tradtional cast ceramic shells posted at frequent intervals. This makes the walking so much more pleasant (for me, in any case) in not having to constantly search high and low at every junction to ensure that one isn't about to take a ten kilometre detour!

I was quickly in Luarca. An interesting town that appeared, like many of these ancient ports, to have an historic quarter. I descended steeply down the cliffs into the centre, over a bridge and climb back up the other side. The camino out of town went due West - the old Camino Real (Royal).

This part of the coast is not at all busy at this time of year. Music was my companion for the walk. There are no other pilgrims about - or none that I've seen anyway.

Just as I was thinking that the horrors of the impending motorway might now be behind us, what do I see appear before me but two new tunnels into the adjacent hillside and a sign for a "temporary" diversion to the camino. Hmm. In an instant my peace was ruined as I was diverted back onto a main road and making a fairly steep climb. A few more twists and turns and then down a badly made track, where all of a sudden I approach the enormous cutting through the landscape that is the route of the new roads. As I cast about for a route, hoping that I wouldn't have to go back, I noticed that there was a marker installed in the middle of the path of the motorway! I walked right across the earthworks, along the opposite side, and back over the cutting. Mad! I was now following temporary waymarkers and after another fairly steep descent I was thrust into the main road - this time with NO shoulder to walk on, and facing large lorries charging just inches past my rucksack. I swore. This didn't look much like the UNESCO listed "European Heritage Site" that the signs so proudly display. I realise I am going on a bit about the road building and the diversions, but I find it oddly disturbing that such an ancient route can be so simply dismissed, to be recreated elsewhere but lacking any deeper connection to pilgrimage. I'm close to turning inland for the final leg to Santiago. I don't expect to find the camino so comprehensively destroyed. I would go as far as to suggest (as I did the other day) that from Santillana, one can take a bus to visit Gijón and Avilés but that the walk itself - well, I'm not sure it will be classed as particularly enjoyable or interesting.

Anyway, the horrors didn't last too long and I was eventually back on the more peaceful lanes. Fortunately I had covered most of today's distance by now and a small map by a hotel showed me that I had less than an hour to my destination.

With aching feet (something like 35km today, and for some reason I didn't stop at all) I signed in a house in advance of the albergue and headed off with the key. Having a key told me that the place was locked. Since the place was locked... Yup, I arrived to find the place empty. That's okay - it makes for a calm arrival. I showered and went shopping for microwaveable food. Piñera is one of those stopping points that has no amenities beyond the albergue. Some enterprising soul has set up a small shop on the edge of town but other than that one has to fend for oneself. There is a hotel 2km previous where I imagine many pilgrims choose to share a room, but that's obviously difficult when walking alone ;0)

So, a quiet evening in the albergue. It looks as if the others stopped in Almuña so I have the place to myself. I'm currently sitting here writing my blog, snug under some blankets and listening to the hissing of cars passing outside. Whether it will rain tomorrow is currently not important. Right now things are good. I'll have no problem sleeping tonight - although the temperatures are starting to drop in the evenings. Two blankets tonight!

:0)

15/10/12: Cadadevo

Well, things are certainly improving in some respects here in Asturias. This is the second of a number of free albergues which, it has to be said, have come at a very helpful time. Had I had to continue the level of expense incurred until now my trip would have come to a slightly premature end!

And for what they are, these lodgings are very nice. Hardly top grade accommodation but they have, with the exception of cooking facilities (which are sporadic), everything necessary to sustain one. Hot water seems to be a given, which seems more wonderful the longer one walks :0)

I awoke this morning at first light (around 08:10) - which is the latest I've woken up since my first days on this walk. Part of the reason was due to the fact that last night, when it became apparent that our only female resident (a Spanish woman I had passed earlier on that day's stage) could snore like an absolute trooper! I picked up a matress, pillow and blanket and trudged off to another part of the building, closed the door and slept very well.

The weather forecast from yesterday had been right. The day began cloudy but dry and the promise of sunshine seemed realistic. The way out of town was clearly marked. I'd had a glass of wine in the bar last night and the barman is also a part of the local hospitalero network. He gave us an explanation of today's route which, it had been suggested, would follow the old main road. Hmm. First they bung in a huge great motorway along the coast, cutting through old roads and pathways at will. Secondly they then have to rush to redirect all the lost pilgrims (yes, there are!) who find their way so rudely interrupted by road building. It would seem that today's stage was one of these.

I set out following the signs and was soon directed off the road and up a steep path through the woods. A little while later I could see that we were walking on some form of provisional camino. Gone were the familiar ceramic shells fixed clearly to stone bollards - which have marked our way through Asturias thus far. Now I was following hastily sprayed yellow arrows placed absolutely minimally along the route.

I headed into a forest of eucalyptus and then began climbing. I saw an old 'proper' waymarker on the path pointing to my left, but with a yellow arrow sprayed pointing directly ahead. The path to the left looked overgrown and abandoned. I was now following a track which was created by the older installation of the gas main. All through France and Spain one can see the major pipelines indicated by yellow or orange coloured metal posts. I was now following just such a route. As a BIG hill grew before me I realised with a slightly sinking feeling that my route was now about to take me over this huge ascent. Okay - so "huge" can be qualified. It was hardly a mountain but it was the steepest and longest ascent I've seen since those few days in the Pyrénées. My goodness but it felt hard work going up - not helped by the fact that because I'm particularly keen to cook my own food now and again I've been carrying around a kilo of rice and assorted foodstuffs (tuna, tomato, sweetcorn) for the past two days!

The view from the top was impressive - all of the coast laid out before me. I could see clearly how the old routes of the camino have been wiped out by all the road building along the coast. Obviously it's important that all these vehicles traveling at high speed can arrive half an hour sooner. Much preferable to maintaining the natural peace and beauty of an area.

The climb was followed by a brief section of level terrain after which the road descended very steeply for close to 2km. It made it very hard work already - straight up and then straight down. As if yesterday hadn't been fairly taxing!

At some point on the way down, as I saw the road switch back in order to maintain the descent I found I became really quite negative about my current camino experience. Gone was the sense of walking through history and sharing in a common experience. I felt we were being herded like sheep now - in the quickest and most expedient manner to the next town, with no real consideration of the camino itself or of what it could offer. Funnily enough I was to find identical sentiments echoed by Emilio, one of the guys from last night who recently pitched up here at the albergue. There are views of the coast on this stage, and sometimes some beautiful glimpses, but one also sees the large, ugly encroachments of factories, retail parks and ill considered urban expansion.

The descent took me back onto the tarmac of a main road. Okay, so not a terribly busy main road but a main road all the same. The ruta del Norte has seen a huge amount of tarmac. Compared with the camino in France this is already massively over-developed. I'd even go so far as to say that since Santillana (and while there have been some beautiful sights en route) the entire coastal route - the Camino del Norte - has basically been lost forever under the surfeit of roadbuilding courtesy of extensive European funding.

After a while some yellow markers appeared and I exited the road and began descending towards the coast. This path appeared to be an established track down to a small secluded beach. A tricky descent among large stones, leaves and wet clay. Just before the beach the path headed left over a stream and then back up the other side of the valley. A long detour that appeared to serve no purpose other than to temporarily redirect the pilgrim away from the road.

Again I felt a sense of a great loss. These paths just didn't feel established or well chosen. For those that will be walking this camino in the years to come, I can only think how much further impoverished might be the experience, as the camino is constantly readjusted to the needs of the road construction lobbies.

Once I began climbing the away from the beach the sun came out. I looked up between the eucalyptus to see blue sky :0) I took off my windproof jacket which had been necessary against a very chilly wind in the morning. Winter must be on its way. Now that I was walking in the sunshine things were at least more enjoyable.

I climbed back out onto the road and headed off following the arrows. Cows at pasture stared contentedly from their paddocks. Farm tracks led off on either side to neat, silent houses. In the distance the rocks and the surf were visible.

I found one further diversion away from the road and took it - aware that last night's talk had mentioned two diversions. Surely I couldn't be in Cadavedo already? I looked at the time - 13:00 hrs. 22km? Really? No wonder the soles of my boots are almost worn away!

I passed a supermarket still unsure of my exact whereabouts but bought some bread, two satsumas and some biscuits. The till receipt said "Supermarket Cadavedo" so that confirmed it - not far to go now.
Indeed there wasn't. I asked a couple I saw sitting outside a bar and they pointed: "there" they said. I was 75 metres from the albergue.

I found the door closed but unlocked so let myself in, signed the book as requested, and showered. Nice. This is another free albergue and I was able to wash my clothes (I'm hoping they dry before this evening's predicted rain) and get comfortable early in the afternoon. It's a good thing sometimes to arrive early and be able to rest the body - particularly the feet. These have been two difficult stages for different reasons. I know the camino del Norte is supposed to be more challenging, but I obviously need to look after myself in order to continue walking comfortably.

About an hour or so after I arrived two of the guys from last night turned up. After we got chatting (no real opportunity yesterday) we seem agreed on trying to find a way to cook a shared meal tonight rather than keep paying in the restuarants. If not well, I'll have to dine out again but it will mean a further day with the extra weight of the food - which I was supposed to be eating, not carrying! And as it happened the hospitalero turned up bringing firewood! There was an old wood-fired stove in one corner and which still worked. Problems solved :0) After he stamped the credentials and left we got busy lighting the stove. We soon had rice, eggs, tuna cooking on the hotplates. Nice :0)

Much later in the evening, when we felt it most unlikely that any further pilgrims might arrive we heard a knock on the door to find two young Spaniards who had had a very long and tiring day in the rain. I think they were pleased to find some life in the albergue and a few smiling faces :0)

I've been told that the weather tomorrow midday onwards is forecast to be VERY heavy rain. Hmm... There are three further free albergues west of here. I'll see how it goes tomorrow and which one I'll make it to. I'll be leaving Asturias in about three days. From here it's Galicia and Santiago!

14/10/12: Soto de Luiña

Yesterday evening ended well, despite the efforts of the local wifi network to thwart my blogging!

Just as I sat down to eat (I call the recipe "tuna surprise" - mostly because it always is) Roland turned up. I invited him to join us. Later that evening the three of us went out to drink cider. After all, this is a centre for cider production, so we felt we were simply indulging in a little cultural tourism :0)

The cider they make here is refreshing but of a low alchohol content, thus a couple of bottles went down well and we strolled back to the albergue. It certainly helped me to relax at the end of the day :0)

One further thing I would add about Avilés is to say that it is a fascinating town. Despite giving the appearance, should one drive into or through it, of being a thoroughly uninteresting modern town, the few streets that comprise the historic centre more than make up for the lack of glamour. What a huge number of fascinating old buildings, cobbled arcades and old churches there are!

Anyway, next morning I awoke at a usual sort of time - around 06:30 - and started repacking the rucksack. I left with Joost just after 08:00, it still quite dark now that the evenings appear to be lengthening.

Today began cloudy and the weather deteriorated quickly. Waterproofs on just as we began the climb out of town and they stayed on all day.

The details of today's stage were less than completely clear. The more recent guidebooks had put the stage at almost 41km - too much to consider allowing for all the ascents and descents today. On the other hand the new map outside the albergue in Avilés had it at 32km - much more manageable. My feeling was that, in comparing the two maps, several of the stages between villages had been shortened. I think many pilgrims found 41km too far.

So, we headed up and out. It wasn't a particularly ardouos climb - in fact none of them were, although climbing and descending take their toll. The rain was coming down steadily now and we just walked without talking, focusing on secure footing in the more difficult conditions.

Just before midday we pitched up in Santiago del Monte where we found a bar. While we were having coffee the heavens opened and we were glad to be sitting indoors, despite the fact that the waterproofs work absolutely fine.

We set off again with 16km already behind us, with 16 or possibly more kilometres still ahead. There were brief pauses in the rain and a few glimpses of sunshine between the clouds but generally today was wet and dreary. There was even a wind that whipped up at times and chilled things somewhat.

When we arrived in the next village, Joost - not unexpectedly - decided that it was both lunchtime and far enough for him. I carried on alone, certain that I would have several hours' more walk ahead of me. I put some music on my little player and headed onward.

The afternoon grew progressively wetter. I was walking solo for the first time in many days and felt a mixture of different things. It's good to have personal time on the camino - the experience does rather lend itself to reflection. I thought about the past days and the weeks, and the more than one thousand kilometres I've already walked. It is true to say that a part of me wanted to return to things known - my own bed, familiar surroundings, some personal space. While there is enormous camaraderie and kindness amongst one's fellow travellers, one is also constantly in contact with others, in shared spaces. I've spent almost six weeks in such company and part of me felt it had had enough. Still, one goes on. I'm simply recording some of what goes on while I'm walking. There's no doubt in my mind that I'll make it to Santiago!

The rest of the afternoon was - to use a word - "challenging". And not necessarily in the best way. It was cold and miserable. In a funny way I didn't mind. As I've said elsewhere on this blog, I've had SO much great wather since I left and this was only the first time I could say it has really rained properly. Walking in wet weather gear (at least, the gear I've bought - on a budget) is a new experience. With continued exertion the gear tends to hold perspiration inside, thus while it is most certainly keeping the rain out! continued wear induces a certain amount of moisture inside. The thing is to keep walking and not let it cool down.

I was making good progress but suddenly and for no apparent reason the markings disappeared. I asked and was shown the way (this happens a lot in Spain) but still no arrows or waymarkers. The reason soon became clear. As I climbed a steep path, the new motorway overpass very mcuh in sight, I discovered that I was pitched out directly onto the exit ramp! The new stretch of motorway has just been opened and has cut directly into the camino. I'm now forced to walk in the rain on a hard shoulder (this is an exit ramp, not the motorway itself). I arrive at a roundabout and suddenly out of nowhere some yellow markers appear. I followe them and realise that this is a very hasty marking job that attempts to restore the pilgrim to some part of the camino. So much for the thousand years of history and the signs that everywhere proclaim the camino's status as part of "a European heritage" - people need to arrive sooner! So forget history, peace, walking - let's build yet more roads!!

The one upside to all of this unexpected diversion was that when I finally climbed down through the woods on an ancient cobbled path (always difficult in the rain, with wet leaves and clay), wondering just how much further I would have to walk, I was delighted to see the sign for my destination just ahead of me. The time taken would seem to suggest that this stage was indeed somewhere in the region of 32km, give a bit. I found the albergue quickly and was pleased to discover that it appears to be free! Lots of hot water in the showers, and blankets etc. but no kitchen, so the food I've carried all day will have to be cooked later (nothing like adding more kilos! A bag of rice, some tuna, a tin of sweetcorn etc... oh what fun I have!)

Right then - that's me up to date. I've no idea where I'm going tomorrow apart from further West. The guide I bought doesn't cover the coastal route this far, so I'll just walk until I've had enough and then find somewhere to stop. There's something fun about the camino in such a spirit - no constant fretting over maps and distances, just following the arrows :0)

I'm off to digest the "pilgrim special" in the restaurant just as soon as it opens. A couple of younger Spanish lads in the albergue - that's about all one sees on this route really. I don't mind but they do have an annoying habit of talking on their mobiles after lights out. Oh well... it's the camino ;0)

13/10/12: Avilés

A nice evening out in Gijón last night - all the bars and restaurants gradually filling up with old and young alike, and plenty of takers still for the outdoor seating. Judging by the flora seen along the camino Asturias has a very mild winter climate.

Anyway, we did the tourist thing and wandered around the town, eventually settling on another bar offering a "pilgrim special". I think the meal actually consisted more of the included wine than it did of the side dishes of chorizo, fried potatoes and sundry other foodstuffs. Still, it did the job ;0)

We left this morning at another lesiurely 08:00-something and wandered out past the marina (the indicated camino) and found a cafe able to serve a form of breakfast. After that it was a very pleasant walk out past the river and through a park.

At the edge of the city we came immediately to the industrial outlands. Oh my! Mile after mile after mile of increasingly ugly buildings, culminating i


Tell you what. I just wrote my entire blog for today when suddenly the connection failed and I was presented with a blank page. I find I'm currently in no mood to be bothered to rewrite the rest of my day. Suffice to say I'm here in Avilès, it's sunny and warm and the albergue is fine. Tomorrow is a hard stage - 32km but a lot of ascent and descent. I expect to part company with Joost tomorrow, who wants a less taxing day. With almost no other pilgrims visible on these stages I imagine I'll complete my journey to Santiago alone, although the camino is always full of surprises.

Right, that's it from me for now. Time to go and search for tonight's food.

12/10/12: Gijón

The night in the small but appointed hotel in Villaviciosa was a night of deep rest. Nice.

There was no need to rush in the morning (there never is!). Breakfast had been delivered the previous evening and the coffee in the thermos was still hot. A minimal breakfast really - and most of which we carried with us for the walk, especially considering that all shops were closed today because of the holiday. It helps to have something to snack on while walking.

We left after 08:00 but the skies were still a little dark - the sun is rising noticeably later each day. We headed out of town past the old church (yup - another old church ;0)) of Santa Maria, looking lovely by floodlight. The day was breaking and we headed across a small park and out of town. The rain was threatening, so we stopped to don the waterproofs. Once again it made the walking easier because there remained no need to keep watching the skies.

We walked for an hour or more, expecting the 400 metre climb to appear. Eventually it did and we set off under the now heavy rain on a fairly steep ascent. Walking on an ancient trail under chestnut and walnut trees, the path was slippery with fallen leaves and the polished rocks. The climb went directly up without pause for a couple of kilometres, all of it very well marked (as is all of the camino thus far in Asturias).

We crested the hill around three and a half hours after leaving the hotel, very glad that we had walked the extra kilometres the previous day to leave us close to the ascents.

Once down the other side we were in the village of Peón where a bar appeared. A large coffee later, among the dozens of ramblers using the location as the starting point for a local walk, and we set out for the second and smaller climb of the day. The weather had improved so we stowed the waterproofs. Much better. I have discovered something that will be of no surprise to any experienced walker, namely that a simple poncho and over-trousers will keep in almost as much moisture as they keep out! The problem with this is that after an hour or more of exertion, one begins to feel chilled by the condensing vapour inside the clothing. Anyway, having been slightly chilled by the initial climb, the weather now allowed me to walk minus the waterproofs. Within fifteen minutes it was as if it had never rained!

We passsed through the village of El Curbiello at the top of the second climb and headed down towards Gijón - which was now visible. I find it always feels much easier to walk towards a visible destination than to have to walk on not knowing if there remain thirty minutes or two hours of walking.

We passed a surprisingly large and impressive building on the outskirst of Gijón - the Cuidad Laboral. This is an enormous complex built by Franco in a vaguely neo-classical style and contains a church and viewing tower. In its day it was an 'education centre' for the children of miners and other low paid workers.

After another coffee break we headed into the city centre. We passed by the beach and into the old city centre. While we knew that the only albergue accredited to Gijón is actually 4km before the city, in a campsite, we felt that after yesterday's result with the hotel we might find similar accommodation here. We weren't wrong. A nice downmarket hostal near the beach cost us 12 euros each. Two basic beds, a creaky armoire and a wonky mirror over a cracked washbasin had exactly the right air of traveling salesmen. Well - a pilgrim isn't much different I guess ;0)

So, after the necessaries (and the landlady kindly agreeing to put our gear in the washing machine) we headed out into the city, armed with tourist map, to peek at the numerous landmarks. Gijón is an impressive city that must have been here a long time. Next to the old Roman baths on the harbourside is a statue of Octavius Augustus. I haven't looked up the history of this place but perhaps Gijón was within his domain. Either way, we photographed our fair share of 16th and 17th century palaces, churches and chapels ;0) Of particular interest was the interior of the church of San Pedro right on the harbour front. The interior decoration contains mosaic frecoes (can such things exist?) in a modern style that recall the ancient Roman mosaics of early Christian churches. I wanted to add some details here such as names of the artists etc. but in using the free wifi in one of the (many) bars here, it's now time to eat and I have no further inclination to spend time looking stuff up on the internet. Anyway, once again it was a good decision to press on to the major town/city and enjoy a little Spanish life ;0)

Tomorrow Aviles. Right now it's time to eat! :0)

11/10/12: Villaviciosa

The albergue at San Esteban was basic yet functional. The main concern was nourishment or lack of, and to that end we had been assured that breakfast would be available at Berbes, just 3km from the albergue. I proposed to Joost that we might leave early in order to take breakfast at an early opportunity and he agreed, so at 07:30, with it still pitch black we set off, with my headlamp glowing, on the road to Berbes.

I could see if not feel the rain spitting by the light of the lamp and within 20 minutes or so it was sufficiently strong that we stopped to put on the rain gear.

We arrived in Berbes in daylight to find the bar closed! Oh well, on to the next port of call. The camino passes close to the coast and we wandered among sandy, deserted beaches in the silvery light - the rain falling steadily but not very hard. It was peaceful and scenic.

The next location that the guide suggested migh offer refreshment was also closed, so on we walked. The weather was damp but not cold, and despite the drizzle the camino was beautiful. After several further abortive attempts to find an open bar (this part of the coast seems very seasonal judging by the number of hotels and chalets) we pressed on to the next major town of Colunga. We were in luck (well, we certainly should have been - it was now almost midday!). On our way out of town we bought a couple of large chocolate biscuits of a type typical here in Spain. I've no idea what they'd be called in English but since today's stage included no further towns or villages with shops or bars we had to make best we could for nourishment during the day.

After coffee in a local bar we set out again, and now the sun came out. Nice :0) The path from Colugna headed out into the hills on a quiet surfaced road with virtually no traffic. The walking was pleasant. We had left early and made good time, and shortly after midday were more than halfway through our 32km stage.

The road began to climb - up among green pasture that held cows with bells, and views of distant pine forest. Joost said it could have been Bavaria in springtime. I have to take his word for it ;0)

We climbed higher and as we climbed the weather changed once more. Dark clouds appeared. It should be no surprise at all to see the rain- after all, this is much more the weather we are told to expect along the northern coast in October. The climb took us past sleepy, traditional hamlets of old farms with their elaborate granaries in stone stilts. We arrived at the tiny village of Pernús with its old, traditional church where we saw a german woman resting in the porch. We had bumped into her yesterday on the seafront at Ribadesella. After a brief chat we pushed on. Now we had reached the highest point of the path at a place called Priesca. Here awaited the most wonderful surprise. The guides always tend to list churches, monasteries and suchlike. We were aware that there was yet another church on top of this hill, but what we weren't aware of (until we arrived) was the the church of San Salvador was a pre-Romanesque church built in 959 and which (according to the plaque) retained portions of the original wall painting!!

Of course it was closed BUT just as I said to Joost how much I'd really like to visit this one particular church, a woman popped out of her front door nearby and I asked her if she knew anything about the opening times. Her reply was "I'm just coming" and less than a minute later we followed her towards the church as she extracted her key :0)

Oh my - this was truly something to behold. I took lots of photos (allowed) and the painting was indeed visible. It was a small and simple design but I was so impressed to find an intact church more than 1000 years old in its original state. We donated a few euros - which she gratefully told us would help pay for the flowers.

We felt it was time for the chocolate biscuits so we sat on a bench nearby and began our 'lunch' just as the heavens opened. Now it really was raining. No problem though - we finished eating under the shelter of the large tree and donned our waterproofs before setting out again.

The path descended quite steeply now, and the going was difficult in the wet. What would otherwise have been simply an ancient, scenic stone path now became a slippery source of potential injury. We picked our way downhill using the walking poles. Once on the flat we continued through apple orchards and pasture. Our destination lay beyond the suggested resting point of Sobrayes and its communal albergue. Joost had information that suggested there were albergues available in Villaviciosa. And our reason for making the extra distance relates directly to tomorrow's stage. Tomorrow we are heading to Gijón. The path out of Gijón heads almost directly up to 400 metres, followed by a steep descent and a further ascent of 200 metres. Rather than stop six kilometres short of the climb in Sobrayes, and thus have to begin climbing after more than an hour's walking, the idea was to get closer to the hills while leaving ourselves a more manageable 26km tomorrow.

The path wound onward and by now my feet were getting tired. This was the third long day in a row and I could feel it. The rain had dropped to intermittent showers, so I was walking in full rain gear mostly because it meant I was free from having to keep trying to decide whether to put it on or take it off. Better to simply leave it on and keep walking. I was glad I did because there were wet squalls about.

We rolled into Villaviciosa around 16:00 and I asked about for the location of the Youth Hostel, only to be told that there wasn't one and that furthermore there were no albergues of any kind in town!

Fortunately we had noted some details stuck to a tree some 10km back, which advertised a hotel in town offering a special rate for pilgrims. We turned a couple of corners on our way to the centre of town and there was the Hotel Carlos I waiting for us.

30 euro for a twin room with shower. Yes please! Much preferable to another night in a common dorm with all that entails. The hotel is really rather splendid.

We went out to eat early, aware that no restaurant in Spain is open before 20:00 hrs. We settled on what looked like a nice traditional bar offering pinchos and ordered a bottle of wine and some assorted plates.

A very nice evening in what was clearly a local establishment, and very good value for money.

Tomorrow is a holiday throughout Spain, although it won't affect our accommodation or dining. Weather forecast isn't too good from now until Sunday, but from Monday things will be brightening up again. All in all it's been good to get the distances done but I would suggest that this part of the camino is quite challenging. There are long stretches of beautiful countryside and coast but not much else. It requires long hours to cover it all and arrive in a suitable town.

One further thing to note: I am now just past the point where the camino del Norte descends onto the camino Primitivo and its journey over the mountains of Asturias. I am now 'committed' to the northern coastal route. This was a choice. I had spoken at some length to Toni about his experiences a couple of years back when walking the primitivo. It is beautiful but very, very isolated in stretches. One can walk all day and pass nothign more than a few ruins and a lot of nature. Accommodation can be scarce, and the walking is hard. If the weather turns against you it can be very miserable and tough going. So I'm going to follow the northern coast until we turn south at Ribaduero.

Right, I think that's everything. I think we're going to repeat the private accommodation idea tomorrow, so I hope to have further updates. The ONLY available albergue at Gijón is the wooden huts at a campsite some 4km before the city. While it's been good to take advantage of the albergues and the discounted rates, one ends up spending every evening in the company of the same few fellow pilgrims. It's nice to be in a larger town or city and be able to get out into the streets and enjoy the ambience.

10/10/12: San Esteban (de Leces)

The albergue in Póo was delightful. Joost and I were the only residents and not only did that make things peaceful and calm, it also allowed us to wander up a short lane into the local bar which Joost had noticed was a "Sidreria" - which means cider. A bottle of 70cl - equivalent to a wine bottle cost 2,30 euros. I've no real experience with cider but it seemed perfectly quaffable.

Breakfast had been mentioned the previous evening: 08:00, positively luxurious. As it turned out there was no breakfast prepared and Ivan, the hospitalero, was nowhere to be seen. We headed back to the bar instead and found more coffee and something to eat.

The day was slightly overcast but warm - already in the 20s by the time we began walking. Today's stage was going to be longer - 32km in fact.

The camino passed quickly towards the beach and we walked alongside the various bays and beaches, the lack of direct sun allowing us to walk in cooler temperatures today.

We passed the old monastery of San Salvador and on past more beaches and cliffs. We then approached another noted church - that of Nuestra Senora de Los Dolores - which sat proudly on its coastal promontory looking for all the world as if it belonged in some central American colony. This custom begun by the early Spanish and Portuguese merchants of introducing the archtectural styles of the Spanish colonies has spread all along this coast and applies to the houses, churches, chapels and farms. One sees many foreign species of plants such as palm trees, cacti and bougainvillea all growing happily in this temperate climate.

We were more than a third of the way through our day and stopped in a small bar for a coffee.

More beaches passed and still the weather remained mild and cooler than previous afternoons. The many farms and old houses - many restored to their former glories - I found fascinating; large estates with grand colonial style houses and mature trees.

The walking was almost completely flat with just a few slight gradients. The eucalyptus have invaded everywhere and although they give good shade, their quick growth and appetite for water are having a disastrous effect on local ecosystems.

The early afternoon hours were the more challenging. With 24km under our belts and still no sight of our next destination - Ribadesellas - these often seem the hardest walking. We arrived in Ribadesellas shortly after 14:00 and headed straight for the nearest restaurant. I had a snack, despite being aware that the chosen albergue for tonight offered no meals and had no kitchen. There was a bar close by (1.5km) but I chose to simply allow the evening to unfold rather than try to plan everything to the smallest detail.

After a rest in Ribadesellas we set out for the final 5km with renewed vigour. The path took us over the bridge and out along the promenade with its peculiar collection of "chalets" - which is the name that has been given to what are actually rather grand, architect designed seaside houses.

It began to spit with rain but nothing that would require waterproofs. Only a couple of kilometres to go and the path turned uphill. Just as some sort of final test for the day we began a kilometre of steep ascent into the hamlet of San Esteban as the rain started to fall more heavily.

We arrived at our destination under a light drizzle. The hospitalero received us warmly and we were soon happily installed and showered as we saw the rain get heavier. This is the first real rain I've seen on the camino.

Having asked about food I was informed that the nearest bar was now 3km away but that the bus stop directly outside would deliver us quickly in time for the evening meal, with a convenient return journey. As it turned out that option became unnecessary. Despite my desire to consume as many calories as I possibly can each day (and particularly during long stages), we were by now six in this somewhat remote location and offers to share food came quickly. So, a most satisfying impromptu feast was organised and we dined on bread, salami, cheese, grapes, pears, yoghurt and tea - finished off with chocolate biscuits! The spirit of the meal more than made up for any possible lack of presentation :0)

Tomorrow is another long stage, with an equivalent (or possibly greater) distance the day after. Planning is now important. Albergues are widely spaced in this part of Asturias. The aim is to avoid putting in a short day of only 20km or less to then find that the next albergue is now 40km away. So one is rather bound by availability, even with a desire to be flexible or to allow things to unfold more organically. It's stopped raining by now and tomorrow looks like being another nice day - but that's tomorrow.

Night all.