Well it just goes to show how one shouldn't come to premature conclusions. Having decided to avoid Rabastens and get the hell out of Dodge, in fact I went back into town because my guide said that the route started near the church of Notre Dame.
As I approached the church I realised I was right next to both the museum and Tourist Information Office, so I popped in on the offchance. Good job I did. The lady therein was so helpful and kind. She went and found her stamp, and was curious to hear about my camino and when and where I was walking. She seemed so excited to get to use her stamp, she stamped my passport and a postcard of St Jacques himself, and gave me some literature about the church. After all that she then stepped out of her office to show me the route out of town. It's amazing what difference a smile and a positive attitude can make. I set off feeling content and, despite my somewhat intrepid adventures of the night before, refreshed.
The experience of walking from Rabstens (which considers itself to be one the camino proper) was noticeable. No more disappearing signposts! My exit from town took me almost immediately upwards:
Within ten minutes I was climbing up towards the Chapel du Puicheval:
Off I went towards St Sulpice, the way clearly marked with good signposts, and walking on quiet, surfaced roads. I broke out the walking poles for the climbs and descents - thanks for the good advice I was given on taking poles!
The path meandered on, on a pleasant day - slightly overcast with a light breeze - perfect conditions for walking. More good signposts (don't worry, I'm sure the novelty will soon wear off!):
I wandered into the woods:
I then crossed the Tarn on my way into the town:
A little way outside St Sulpice I crossed the A68 motorway - the one that goes to Toulouse:
Well over half way by now and compared to yesterday quite superb. My feet still get a bit tired, but the rest of me felt absolutely fine.
I found my way to Roqueseriere and then some undulating fields provided my final approach to Montastruc:
It was upon reaching Montastruc that I felt my luck was certainly in. Upon entering the town hall I was greeted by polite and helpful service, and the kind lady immediately phoned a couple of addresses that shelter pilgrims. Getting no reply she furnished me with a map and advised me to try knocking. I'm very glad that I did! I found the most delightful couple whose son (still at work at the time) has a little shared room for pilgrims. And while many people choose to phone ahead (note to self!) they couldn't have been friendlier or more welcoming. Glasses of iced peppermint drinks, beer, home made cake. And when their son Mickael got home he seemed so genuinely pleased to meet a fellow pilgrim.
So here I sit (now time for bed!) just putting the finishing touches to a grand day. This little place I've got all to myself, and it's wonderful. Comfy beds, peace, a washing machine (he encouraged me to make the most of things). I cooked a VERY large plate of pasta, several cups of real tea, and now I'm all sorted. Clean clothes, very well rested, well fed, all my devices charged up and - as you can see - use of the internet!
Tomorrow I make it to Toulouse from where my path joins the "Chemin d'Arles" and from where I expect to find the going much easier in terms of provision. Mind you I had to smile when Mickael told me that the Chemin d'Arles is known as "the solo way" because of the very few people on it! So perhaps I'll hold off starting my album of "people I've met on the camino"... Mind you, Spain will be another story.
Right that's it from me. At the very least I should be online again in a couple of days, when I'll be in Pibrac. Night all.
As I approached the church I realised I was right next to both the museum and Tourist Information Office, so I popped in on the offchance. Good job I did. The lady therein was so helpful and kind. She went and found her stamp, and was curious to hear about my camino and when and where I was walking. She seemed so excited to get to use her stamp, she stamped my passport and a postcard of St Jacques himself, and gave me some literature about the church. After all that she then stepped out of her office to show me the route out of town. It's amazing what difference a smile and a positive attitude can make. I set off feeling content and, despite my somewhat intrepid adventures of the night before, refreshed.
The experience of walking from Rabstens (which considers itself to be one the camino proper) was noticeable. No more disappearing signposts! My exit from town took me almost immediately upwards:
Within ten minutes I was climbing up towards the Chapel du Puicheval:
From here there was a great view of the way south towards St Sulpice, and included my first real view of the river Tarn:
The path meandered on, on a pleasant day - slightly overcast with a light breeze - perfect conditions for walking. More good signposts (don't worry, I'm sure the novelty will soon wear off!):
And eventually came out to a wonderful view above St Sulpice, just before I began the descent into the town:
Once into town I quickly found my route through. I stopped outside the town hall to rest my feet and to finish off the slices of cold pizza. Yumm! I noticed an interesting looking church but wanted to press on. I notice they seem to have lost one of their bells:
Well over half way by now and compared to yesterday quite superb. My feet still get a bit tired, but the rest of me felt absolutely fine.
I found my way to Roqueseriere and then some undulating fields provided my final approach to Montastruc:
So here I sit (now time for bed!) just putting the finishing touches to a grand day. This little place I've got all to myself, and it's wonderful. Comfy beds, peace, a washing machine (he encouraged me to make the most of things). I cooked a VERY large plate of pasta, several cups of real tea, and now I'm all sorted. Clean clothes, very well rested, well fed, all my devices charged up and - as you can see - use of the internet!
Tomorrow I make it to Toulouse from where my path joins the "Chemin d'Arles" and from where I expect to find the going much easier in terms of provision. Mind you I had to smile when Mickael told me that the Chemin d'Arles is known as "the solo way" because of the very few people on it! So perhaps I'll hold off starting my album of "people I've met on the camino"... Mind you, Spain will be another story.
Right that's it from me. At the very least I should be online again in a couple of days, when I'll be in Pibrac. Night all.
Sounds like you've had a good start, Alan - it would be interesting to know the distances you're covering. I stand corrected on the Saint's name...I have since realised that my addled mind was mixing St Jacques up with St Jean because I stayed near St Jean Pied de Port many years ago, and took a little stroll on the way there with three small children in tow.You will presumably be passing through it at some point? Must dig out that little book I bought back then.....
ReplyDeleteHi Gigi,
ReplyDeleteI'm covering between 20 and 25km per day thus far. Today's is supposed to be 29.5km so err... not sure what I'll feel like by this afternoon, especially with some ups and downs to be done.
I'm going over to St Jean PdP later in the trip, before I head up to Irun to take the Camino del Norte, but that's all for another day. I'm off out now :0)