Interesting night last night. I omitted to mention that due to language barriers, I'd arrived at the beautiful gite at St Criq to discover that eight spaniards had booked themselves in. Not that it really made much difference since they kept themselves to themselves and generally behaved as if they were still in Spain. However, it did mean that I slept on the floor in the main gite - which I rather liked to be honest, as I was free from group snoring activities. This is a beautiful little gite with its own cottage garden, several dogs and cats and generally a peaceful spot in which to rest:
This morning I was dropped on the road exactly where I'd been met the night before - barely 2km outside the gite - and then proceeded to reprise my route from exactly where I finished last night. It was only a matter of minutes before I was heading off on new ground but I did pass by the Chateau de St Cirq. On close inspection (and while it's still a fine building) there's not so much to recommend it. It appear to have been "got at" some years ago and it looks as if all the interiors have been redone in a rather clinical white partioning. Where's Viollet Le Duc when you need him (although I've just learned that he was let loose on the Town Hall at St Antonin)? Anyway, here are the photos:
In fairly short order I found myself approaching Auch. Here's a view of the old town looking particularly lovely in the morning sun:
It wasn't that hot yet, so I enjoyed the walk to the cathedral, where I'd been told one could obtain another stamp. The route led me through another of these beautiful leisure parks, with all the trees labelled and people out everywhere riding bikes, running, or just enjoying the peace of the river. I walked beside the Gers to approach the cathedral. Here are a couple of views closing in on the cathedral:
I had what one might call an interesting time at the cathedral. It's an impressive building, founded in something like 1489. Anyway, when I arrived there was a mass in progress. Normally such things would send me running in the opposite direction but since I was interested in the stamp I decided to enter. The information about the church requested (not surprisingly) that tours of the church should respect its primary function i.e. mass and that tourists should wait until the end. Since it was growing hot outside and since I'd told myself that I was in no particular hurry (which I'm not) and since the sound of the organ and the hundreds of residents singing made a rather sweet sound, I took off my rucksack, leant against the cool stone pillar of the cathedral and waited.
I found myself quite moved by the honest simplicity of it all - the singing and the mood were all very genuine and earthy. No fancy hats and vyeing for attention, just people partaking in a ceremony that helps shape their lives.
But I can only stand so much pomp and godliness. I was curious though, my mood seemed happy to listen and to try to understand how these things still frame the lives of so many French people today. At some point in between the Hallelujahs and what sounded like the Lord's prayer, I heard (I couldn't see, I was sitting) somebody taking the sacrament. Well, I thought, this is obviously a big deal for somebody. And then I noticed to my left three chaps in green capes emblazoned with the Occitan cross, fiddling about in the font. I'd assumed they were doing something aside to the proceedings - perhaps readying for the final prayer - when they turned to pass in front of me. As they approached one of the gentlemen stopped in front of me and extended his hand. I stood to shake it and he asked me about my pilgrimage, where I had come from etc. He wished me well and they passed on. As my eyes followed them towards the central aisle, I became aware of the entire rear of the congregation staring at me! It was a few moments later before it became clear perhaps why. The young daughter of a woman standing next to me presented her mum with a flyer. It explained that today was a special mass to celebrate the appointment of the new Abbot. It was he who had just shaken my hand and then proceded to the altar :0)
This is a hand held shot of the general sort of atmosphere etc. It's an impressive building:
I did finally have enough of it all but the length of this special mass meant that I'd missed my chance to gain a stamp and I didn't want to hang about - by now I'd phoned ahead to a gite and felt like getting moving. I noticed this particularly old looking townhouse nearby:
The remainder of my day turned out to be very similar to the two preceding: lots of open spaces, no towns or villages and LOTS of sun! Long stretches of uphill with no shade nor a cloud in the sky! I was grateful for the woods, which were fairly frequent and which provided shade.
Eventually (this was supposed to be a shorter stage in order to rest my feet) I neared my destination. The town before - Barran - was quite pretty (not sure that this photo does it too much justice):
I couldn't help noticing as I passed through that the church appears to have some problems with its spire... I wasn't in a mood for stopping (this still turned out to be a longer day than I'd planned) but I did take some photos of it, of which this is one:
Not too long after this (although a couple of hot uphill treks too many!) I arrived in L'isle de Noé and despite having wondered whether it would really turn out to be worth all the heat, sweat and wear and tear (the feet don't like it inside the boots in such temperatures) I was amazed and amused when I arrived at the Gite Moody Blues, run by a kind lady from Northamptonshire.
An ex hotel, I found sofas, a TV (noOOO!!!) and was directed not to a dormitory but my OWN ROOM! With en suite!
I was introduced to some fellow pilgrims - two Quebecois, a Frenchman and a young German chap. We ate together and chatted about this and that, and once again I was extremely well catered for (roast chicken and roast potatoes) and (as you can tell) got use once more of the internet.
So, breakfast tomorrow morning and a SHORT stage - just 20km or so up to St Christaud. Time to ease up on the feet and look after them in this heat.
This morning I was dropped on the road exactly where I'd been met the night before - barely 2km outside the gite - and then proceeded to reprise my route from exactly where I finished last night. It was only a matter of minutes before I was heading off on new ground but I did pass by the Chateau de St Cirq. On close inspection (and while it's still a fine building) there's not so much to recommend it. It appear to have been "got at" some years ago and it looks as if all the interiors have been redone in a rather clinical white partioning. Where's Viollet Le Duc when you need him (although I've just learned that he was let loose on the Town Hall at St Antonin)? Anyway, here are the photos:
In fairly short order I found myself approaching Auch. Here's a view of the old town looking particularly lovely in the morning sun:
It wasn't that hot yet, so I enjoyed the walk to the cathedral, where I'd been told one could obtain another stamp. The route led me through another of these beautiful leisure parks, with all the trees labelled and people out everywhere riding bikes, running, or just enjoying the peace of the river. I walked beside the Gers to approach the cathedral. Here are a couple of views closing in on the cathedral:
I had what one might call an interesting time at the cathedral. It's an impressive building, founded in something like 1489. Anyway, when I arrived there was a mass in progress. Normally such things would send me running in the opposite direction but since I was interested in the stamp I decided to enter. The information about the church requested (not surprisingly) that tours of the church should respect its primary function i.e. mass and that tourists should wait until the end. Since it was growing hot outside and since I'd told myself that I was in no particular hurry (which I'm not) and since the sound of the organ and the hundreds of residents singing made a rather sweet sound, I took off my rucksack, leant against the cool stone pillar of the cathedral and waited.
I found myself quite moved by the honest simplicity of it all - the singing and the mood were all very genuine and earthy. No fancy hats and vyeing for attention, just people partaking in a ceremony that helps shape their lives.
But I can only stand so much pomp and godliness. I was curious though, my mood seemed happy to listen and to try to understand how these things still frame the lives of so many French people today. At some point in between the Hallelujahs and what sounded like the Lord's prayer, I heard (I couldn't see, I was sitting) somebody taking the sacrament. Well, I thought, this is obviously a big deal for somebody. And then I noticed to my left three chaps in green capes emblazoned with the Occitan cross, fiddling about in the font. I'd assumed they were doing something aside to the proceedings - perhaps readying for the final prayer - when they turned to pass in front of me. As they approached one of the gentlemen stopped in front of me and extended his hand. I stood to shake it and he asked me about my pilgrimage, where I had come from etc. He wished me well and they passed on. As my eyes followed them towards the central aisle, I became aware of the entire rear of the congregation staring at me! It was a few moments later before it became clear perhaps why. The young daughter of a woman standing next to me presented her mum with a flyer. It explained that today was a special mass to celebrate the appointment of the new Abbot. It was he who had just shaken my hand and then proceded to the altar :0)
This is a hand held shot of the general sort of atmosphere etc. It's an impressive building:
I did finally have enough of it all but the length of this special mass meant that I'd missed my chance to gain a stamp and I didn't want to hang about - by now I'd phoned ahead to a gite and felt like getting moving. I noticed this particularly old looking townhouse nearby:
The remainder of my day turned out to be very similar to the two preceding: lots of open spaces, no towns or villages and LOTS of sun! Long stretches of uphill with no shade nor a cloud in the sky! I was grateful for the woods, which were fairly frequent and which provided shade.
Eventually (this was supposed to be a shorter stage in order to rest my feet) I neared my destination. The town before - Barran - was quite pretty (not sure that this photo does it too much justice):
I couldn't help noticing as I passed through that the church appears to have some problems with its spire... I wasn't in a mood for stopping (this still turned out to be a longer day than I'd planned) but I did take some photos of it, of which this is one:
Not too long after this (although a couple of hot uphill treks too many!) I arrived in L'isle de Noé and despite having wondered whether it would really turn out to be worth all the heat, sweat and wear and tear (the feet don't like it inside the boots in such temperatures) I was amazed and amused when I arrived at the Gite Moody Blues, run by a kind lady from Northamptonshire.
An ex hotel, I found sofas, a TV (noOOO!!!) and was directed not to a dormitory but my OWN ROOM! With en suite!
I was introduced to some fellow pilgrims - two Quebecois, a Frenchman and a young German chap. We ate together and chatted about this and that, and once again I was extremely well catered for (roast chicken and roast potatoes) and (as you can tell) got use once more of the internet.
So, breakfast tomorrow morning and a SHORT stage - just 20km or so up to St Christaud. Time to ease up on the feet and look after them in this heat.
I am constantly impressed that you have the energy to write such a detailed and interesting account so often! The progress you're making on foot seems to be achieving way more than I can in the same number of hours in one spot with all the gadgetry designed to make life 'easier'!
ReplyDeleteHow often and for how long do you stop?
What's wrong with the church spire apart from looking like one of those erasers you get on the end of pencils? Maybe the twist is not part of the design?
We stop maybe for a couple of times per day, sometimes to eat a light lunch, but generally for about 30 mins or so. When I walked on my own I basically didn't stop at all, except when my feet got so hot that they needed air. But that was counterproductive. This is much more fun traveling with a few fellow pilgrims. A day or two more maybe before we go our separate ways.
ReplyDeleteThe church spire? I dunno - maybe I just got a bit obsessed over how twisted it looked...